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The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Cracks T 
AP Treat T 
Beast 666 T 
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 
Browns Fist T 
Cerberus T 
Effigy T 
Energy Crisis T 
Lower Refuse T 
Maid in the Shade T 
On Crack T 
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T 
Welton's Corner  T 
Whack-A-Mole T 
Wild T 
Wildabeast T 
Unsorted Routes:

Welton's Corner  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Loran Smith Spring, 1986
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: EDGE on Nov 3, 2012

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Joshua finishing the route, the Prow is visible ab...


This is the route starting just right of AP Treat, next to the stone steps accessing the Prow Area. Begin on a shallow arĂȘte leading to cracks and flakes which bring you to a stance under the final shallow corner. Climb the corner past a bolt (not present on the FA) to the top and a shared tree belay with AP Treat.


Below the start of the Prow on a 50 foot high slab. Welton's Corner climbs a shallow inside corner via cracks and flakes about 20' right of AP Treat.


Small to mid sized stoppers and cams and one bolt. The bolt was added 21 years after the FA, which used a tied off long dong piton in the crack below the present day bolt.

Photos of Welton's Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux sequence.
Starting the crux sequence.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua takes a run on TR.  Welton's Corner climbs ...
Joshua takes a run on TR. Welton's Corner climbs ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua contemplating the crux moves.
Joshua contemplating the crux moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua Corbett on TR, just about to start the crux...
Joshua Corbett on TR, just about to start the crux...

Comments on Welton's Corner Add Comment
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From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Nov 3, 2012

This route is written up in the 2012 Handren guide as "By the Way" 5.10a with a FA attributed to George Hurley and Mike Kahn, July 4, 2007.

The actual FA was done by Loran Smith in Spring of 1986 after a brief cleaning on rappel, and was repeated later that same week by Mack Johnson and Loran Smith who both graded it 5.9. The present day bolt was presumably placed in 2007, but originally the upper corner was protected by a long dong piton which I carried as a cleaning tool which was pounded in 1/3 length and tied off.

Named after Welton Pearson, potato & dairy farmer, Celtics fan, and my grandfather, who died the week before.
By jim.dangle
Jul 17, 2013

I reckon this is more difficult (harder 5.10ish) if go straight up the slab rather than heading left onto the arete near the top. Basically follow the direction of rope in the pictures.

It's a decent variation.


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