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Cochrane Lane Cliffs 
Eagle Rock 
Mount Douglas-East Face 
Welsford Bouldering 

Welsford Rock Climbing 

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Location: 45.4559, -66.3419 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010
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Joe's Garage at Cochrane Lane

Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control MORE INFO >>>


Considered the highest concentration of quality climbing in the Atlantic Provinces. Trad, sport, ice, aid and top-roping. Quality rock, excellent pro-placement, great views from up high.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs. If you're not a UNB rock & Ice member, you'll have to drive to camp Petersville 9km North of Welsford to get a day pass. If you're a UNB rock & Ice member, please call in.

Here is a summary of the 5 crags:

Cochrane Lane
By far the biggest crag in New Brunswick. With its 350 routes on beautiful pink Granite, it is by far the most popular area in New Brunswick. The climbing here is mostly trad but there is a fair bit of mix routes and sport routes, especially in the 5.11 range.

A newly developped cliff, Sunnyside offers climbers a chance to relax and clip some nice shiny bolts. There are about 30 climbs and grades range from 5.7 to 5.12c. You can find jugs, crimps, slopes and a few cracks on these short to medium size diabase routes.

Mount Douglas
Was rediscovered in 2010 by a local climber and since then a bunch of work has been put into it. The''Dalles'' are not to be missed here as they offer high quality moderate challenges on well protected slabs. Also, Idoprofen is one of the few hand jam cracks in NB and is not to be missed by the 5.11 climber.

Bald Peak It offers about 15 toprope routes on high quality granite and gives climbers one of the best view in the Nerepis valley.

Eagle Rock
Rediscovered in 2012 by local climbers who have been putting new traditional routes up. This crag is in Welsford but isn't affected by the Gagetown agreement. Climb at will.

Getting There 

Along Route 7 between Oromocto and Saint John, NB. 45 minutes from Fredericton, 25 minutes from Saint John. See parking and approach details for the specific crags.

Climbing Season

Weather station 15.7 miles from here

61 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Welsford

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Welsford:
Stairway to Heaven   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 90'   Sunnyside : Atomic Wall
Pass the Moonshine   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Pyramid Wall Area
About a Rope   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Pyramid Wall Area
Leviathan   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 30'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Cave Area
Cornifluge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Mount Douglas-East Face : Main Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Welsford

Featured Route For Welsford
Rock Climbing Photo: Welcome to Welsford 5.12  W2W

Welcome To Welsford 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  North America : Canada : ... : The Hex Wall
What an impressive 70 foot slightly overhanging climb that follows a thin crack starting on the left side of the wall and trends right before finishing at the top of the wall. While the thin crack offers enough protection to climb this traditionally the route is mostly face climbing with few good rests. The starting hold is height dependent so there is a cheater stone build to start the route. It would not be a bad idea to TR this and look at the gear before trying the red point if this is re...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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Comments on Welsford Add Comment
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By Ian Lingley
Aug 1, 2012
Is there any way to remove the CFB warning on all of Welsford and only apply it to the cliffs/areas that are affected? Eagle rock is private property and I'm also planing on adding bald peak as well and it's not on the base either?
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 1, 2012
Ian, the warning could be removed from the overall Welsford area and added to the individual crags it applies to.
By Ian Lingley
Aug 2, 2012
That would be great, It applies to the Cochrane Lane Cliffs, sunny side, Mount Douglas-East Face and the bouldering.
By Dom
From: New Brunswick Canada
Aug 10, 2012
Hey Ian, Bald Peak is on CFB Gagetown. The parking isn't but the cliff is. Anyways, I'll try to fix all this so that Eagle Rock doesn't get the Access message.
By Wade Hall
From: San Angelo, TX
Aug 17, 2015
Looking for a sport climbing partner this week!

Hello, I'll be in Saint John 8/20-24 and was hoping to get some climbing in. Sounds like Sunnyside would be the place for me. Would anyone be interested in meeting up?
By gph
Sep 1, 2015
There should be an update to the access notes for Welsford Crags reflecting the changes in the agreement which now exists with Ascent New Brunswick and Base Gagetown. Can one of the admins for this page please update it? UNB Rock and Ice is no longer on the agreement.

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