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Lower Mother's Buttress
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Welcoming Party 

5.7+

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
FA: KC Baum
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Feb 18, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: No Name on the left, and Welcoming Party on the ri...

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Description 

Yet another quality route on the East end of Lower Mothers Buttress. Follow the trail up from the road to the Mint Jam Chimney (see Mint Jam). This route shares the same start as No Name Route but cuts left into the offwidth where No Name tackles the finger crack. Start in a good hand crack just right of Mint Jam Chimney and climb up for 10 feet to a sloping ledge and head right into a super funky offwidth. The book suggests a sideways body stem to get through this section, I suggest bringing a healthy selection of cuss words and a big cam for the move, it would probably be called 5.10 in Boulder Canyon and have a few bolts on it :-) Finish straight up on wide hands passing a few chockstones and belay on a large ledge at 90 feet. Walk off to the east.


Protection 

Standard with one offwidth piece (#4 Camalot).



Photos of Welcoming Party Slideshow Add Photo
Hanging Chad and Kate.

Hanging Chad and Kate.

Lower Mother's is reported to be popular.

Lower Mother's is reported to be popular.

Climbing Welcoming Party.

Climbing Welcoming Party.


Comments on Welcoming Party Add Comment
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By Eli Elinoff
Jul 13, 2004

Definitely bring a 3.5 or a 4 not too bad otherwise.

By Cale Csizmadi
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 9, 2004
rating: 5.7+

Great one pitch route with a little bit of everything and a great intro to Unaweep climbing. Stepping off the ground you have a great hand crack with some stemming to the 1st foot ledge. Then the rock gets slightly steeper with great jams to the next ledge below the offwidth (#1 BD protects). Tackling the offwidth I used a #3.5 BD at the begin climbed up left side in and protected the top moves with a #4 BD.

By Matt Chan
From: Denver, CO
Jun 28, 2005
rating: 5.8

I'd argue that the crux is 5.8, but I have no off width technique at all. Take the #4 camalot with for the crux and dig it in deep. 1.5 stars - not nearly as good as its neighbors.

By LIV
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.7+

Great one-pitch route - off width wasn't horrible, but probably more like an 8 in that section.