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 ADVANCED
Main Wall and Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'MuchAid 
5.2 T,TR 
5.5  T,TR 
5.5 (Main Wall) T,TR 
5.6 (Left of Hourglass) T,TR 
5.6 Top Rope TR 
5.7 T,TR 
5.7 (Main Wall, Right) T,TR 
5.7+ T,TR 
5.7- T,TR 
5.8 T,TR 
5.8+ T,TR 
A Touch Too Much  T,TR 
A Year in the Life T,TR 
A Year in the Life, Variation 1 Direct Start T,TR 
A Year in the Life, Variation 2, Left Start T,TR 
Blow Out T,TR 
Evening Visitor T 
Foreign Invasion T,TR 
Hourglass T,TR 
Main Wall Traverse 
Roof Route T,TR 
Welcome to Waterloo T 

Welcome to Waterloo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Lucho Romero
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: Ed Wade on Aug 19, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start on left side of the Main wall (right of Hourglass and left of Foreign Invasion)and aim for a short vertical crack about 15 ft. up. Climb up then step right to the horizontal letterbox. Set good gear then diagonal up and right to above A Year in the Life. Set anchors or top out and walkoff right. My favorite climb at Allamuchy.

Location 

Starts just to the left of Foreign Invasion and to the right of Hourglass. Look for the short vertical crack about 15ft. up. The route basically diagonalls up and right across the Main Face.

Protection 

Wires and small cams, tcu's. Double up at first crack and at the letterbox. I think there is a gear placement before you reach the anchor point but not positive. Set a gear anchor above Year in the Life.


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By Michael Schneider
Jul 4, 2014

The climbs at Allamuchy, were led Ground Up. Pre 1985. J Gruenberg, and the rest of us had cleaned with wire brushes and led them in the early 80s. The ascents were nearly solos, the gear was stupid hard to get on lead and then was not bomber. Because of the style of those early ascents pins and bolts were not used, not even for anchors. In hopes of adding clarity, the Bell Labs in berkley heights was the home to a ski and outdoors club who's members were the gunks regulars of the late 40's through the early 70's including Shockley. The gas crisis of the mid 70's led to greater development of rock climbing in NJ. The history of climbing and the changes in the climbers bag of tricks. led to the increase in the standards of difficulty
I am glad that the snot slick face climbs got names. They are like so many other NJ climbs, an acquired
taste.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Jul 6, 2014

Interesting comment. I was shown this contrived route by Lucho (Columbian) in the spring of 87, assuming it was his creation. I climbed at Allamuchy extensively from 87 to 89 then moved away. If you or someone you know had originally climbed this route then by all means I will change the first ascent name. Lucho put all his bolts in ground up as did Rich Sheuer. Mike MacDonald on the other hand probably rap bolted one or two routes. The gear placements on the Main wall seem to be solid where there is opportunity. Allamuchy and Forest Lakes were our after work crags and toproping these climbs seemed awfully mundane and pointless. Lucho always told us that we should always lead climb when possible to keep that mindset. By the way, do you know who placed those old 1/4 inch buttonheads (top of the 5.5 corner and high up on Foreign Invasion)?