Welcome to the Machine
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This route starts in the deep cleft just to the right of the slab where Endgame begins, following a line of bolts up a rounded arete festooned with chickenheads and some blank slabby bits.
The first two pitches (can be linked with a 70m and possibly with a 60m rope as well) go straight up the blunt, bolted arete punctuated by two-bolt belays with colossal Metolius rap hangers at each. Endgame meets WTTM in an alcove of sorts at the second belay and then veers right; a suggested linkup is Endgame to WTTM, or WTTM to Endgame, rejoining on the ledge where all south face End Pinnacle routes seem to converge. The 5.10c/d cruxes on pitch 3 are supposedly more like 5.10a/b if a person faces out and right, and in any event are tightly bolted; a fall would be inconsequential. WTTM to Endgame is 5.10a, Endgame to WTTM is 5.10c/d, both are sport bolted at the cruxes.
After pitch 3, mid-sized cams are needed if a person wishes to shorten the runouts as the angle begins to ease off. WTTM crosses the bulging belly of the pinnacle higher up above where Endgame shoots off to the right, but rejoins the latter route on the big ledge where everything seems to converge. Take your pick of the final pitch to the top.
Between Endgame and Great Gig in the Sky / Days of Future Passed, this route follows the rounded, featured arete just to the left of the deep recess behind the house-sized boulder that marks the initial bolted traverse of Endgame's 1st pitch. Go straight up.
Many draws, slings, small to medium cams for p4
Just before the business on the first pitch.
View of the first pitch
Wyatt following the 2nd pitch, almost in the sun!
Begining the crux 3rd pitch, it is closely bolted,...
After the 4th pitch, move the belay to the right a...
|Comments on Welcome to the Machine
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This is a good route! To supplement ttriche's description, here is some additional information on this route:
Bob Kerry's description of this route can be found here: www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page224.html
Below is a pitch-by-pitch description of this route:
Pitch 1) Head up the chimney on easy ground to a bolt about 30' up. Exit the chimney to the face and continue up to a two bolt anchor (5.9, 95').
Pitch 2) Continue up using bolts, gear, and a few slung chickenheads for protection. End after 160' at a two bolt anchor. This pitch shares about 100' with Endgame (5.8, 160').
Pitch 3) Endgame heads right from the anchor. To continue on Welcome to the Machine, head straight up past a difficult, tightly bolted section (5.10c, 65').
Pitch 4) Continue up the bolts along a crack. The bolts end as the crack becomes protectable. Place a few pieces of gear in the crack and continue up to a 1 bolt anchor on a large ledge. (5.10a, 130')
Traverse right 30' to the anchors for Days of Future Passed and Endgame. The latter offers the safest passage to the top of End Pinnacle.
A topo for this route is available for clicking this link:
Note that this climb is on two faces, the W face and SW face. You will need the topo for the SW face of end pinnacle for the final pitch to the summit.
|By Justin York|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The description (and look) of WTTM p1 didn't compare to endgame p1, so we did the following linkup that I HIGHLY recommend: Endgame pitches 1 and 2 (WTTM p2 is mostly same of endgame p2 anyway), WTTM pitches 3 and 4, finish on engame p5. Thoroughly enjoyed pitch 3! Neat, thought-provoking moves. Used only one piece (#3 cam) on p4, so don't overdo the rack you may bring up. IMHO, p4 was 5.9ish.
I would give the link-up 4 stars!
Saw a new finish for p5 above the big ledge. Would be a pretty direct finish to WTTM. If it wasn't late in the day we probably would have tried it. It was a bolted pitch probably about 40 feet rock left of the anchors for days of future passed. Any idea of the rating on this?
|By Stu Ritchie|
Feb 27, 2011
Agreed, Endgame pitch 1 into WTTM, finishing on Endgame's 5th is a 4 star route!
I noticed the newer rap set-up off the summit down the front and would not recomend it in windy conditions. It's just too simple to go down the traditional rappels through the chimney and out the window.