After the summer of 2011 ended and there had been many ascents of this route, it really cleaned it up nicely. 95% of the rock is of good quality and makes this long route really enjoyable. The first line of bolts are pumpy and require some varied technique to reach the last bolt prior to the traverse right. Clip long here and long again on the next bolt of the traverse. You do not want to do this because you are in the middle of the climb's crux; do it anyway, the smoother pull higher up will pay off later. You can stay with face moves or use the off-width crack further right to back step up with the right foot and use the left foot on the face. Depending on your level of fear relating to off-widths, the crack seems to be easier. It is pumpy and a long way from here to the chains so find a rest and use it!
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT May 22, 2012 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
This is a great route - probably my favorite of the few I got to do. Using long slings at the traverse is not too scary if you are heading for the corner. Staying on the face/arete above that point looked improbable to me but I gave it a go on TR and found it doable and fun though at least a half grade harder than the corner.
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Jul 2, 2012 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
I'd second Stan's comments. Don't go to the chimney, the thin traverse is probably the crux and doesn't feel much harder than staying on the arete/face where hidden edges lurk. Back-clean the high bolt before the traverse to reduce rope drag. Great long route but it might scare your pants off if it's your intro to the Jungle. Some of the wafer holds just don't feel right...
Led this one the other day without the beta information from this site. Since the upper bolts are placed in the middle of the face (see my comment on the beta photo) I supposed that the route went directly up the bolt line using neither the dihedral on the right nor the arete on the left. This supposed line is considerably stiffer than 5.10b. Needless to say there was some extensive dogging and complaining on this 45 minute exercise! There was also a fall taken when a mid-face foothold crumbled.
On a TR second try, I used the arete. It is mostly reasonable 5.10 but a couple of the clips would be real stretches. Getting to the 2nd to last bolt from the arete is a hard move.
Enjoyed seeing the monkey bauble at the anchors :-)