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Tan Corridor
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4 Finger Discount T,S 
80 Grit S 
Black and Tan S 
Chalk Dust Tourture S 
Crushing My Gear to Climb T 
Dark Knight T 
Ddong Chim! S 
Ginger Snap S 
Jerry the Gnome S 
Muricuh S 
Never Named, No. 39  T,S 
No Opportunity Missed S 
No Rain S 
Opportunist, The S 
Reef On It! S 
Rolling Black Out TR 
Three Bite Burrito  S 
Tickle My Blossom T 
Turkey Time  S 
Welcome to Staunton T 

Welcome to Staunton 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: D. Montgomery & J. Haas, 7/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,840
Submitted By: Monty on May 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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On the FA. Photo by Amanda Peterson.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The name says it all. This was the route that initially caught my eye and remains as one of the best in the park! Bouldery and sustained is the name of the game.

Boulder your way through a roof past 4 bolts eventually gaining a finger crack that peters out just below the anchor. One more bolt protects the slabby finale.

Location 

This is just uphill from where the trail meets the upper corridor. It is the leftmost of the 12s.

Protection 

5 bolts, doubles from 0.3 to 0.5, (1x) #1 Camalot. A red c3 is very helpful for the 11+/12a sequence above the 4th bolt.


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By acouncell
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Overall, you guys have done an awesome job with the routes in Tan Corridor, and most climbs readily deserve the stars they're given. I found this route a notable exception. From start to finish, footholds crumbled and handholds snapped off. It seemed more chossy than its neighbors and, compared to Muricah, is much harder. Seemed at least .12+. I'm sure it was better/easier at some point, but it has apparently changed since the FA. Still, I'm not complaining; this little area is a gem, but I just don't think this route is four stars anymore, IMO.
By Pinklebear
Jul 2, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

I think this is actually an awesome pitch, especially the stretch along the finger crack on the upper half. It just needs travel, so all the crispiest part of the patina nipples can snap off (check out all the mini-pink scars on the more-traveled routes on the wall; it's just a delicate granite at first). The one thing that struck me is that this is a very committing lead, onsight from the ground-up. The "TCU nest" you can build after busting the hard crux past the third bolt was not super-bomber to my mind; I hung on it but was unwilling to commit to the moves above, so I swung over while lowering off Muricuh and sussed out that sequence, which is hard enough (11+/12a) getting up to where the crack really starts. If that nest blew or even if it didn't, the ground is pretty close. Maybe there is a little nut higher, but I didn't want to dink with it.

IMO, a fourth bolt in lieu of that gear nest would make the route more in line, protection-wise, with the other routes on this wall, and then it might get more traffic and hence cleaner. If not, for me at least it was a fun headpoint.
By Monty
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Jul 10, 2014

WTS now has 4 bolts through the initial bouldery crux. The additional bolt was approved by the SSPFHRG in June, and I installed the bolt yesterday. This makes WTS a much safer lead. The finger crack after the crux is some of the best climbing at Staunton.... On a side note, you can easily set up a top rope on the route from No Opportunity Missed if you want to scope the gear and hang draws. Enjoy!
By Patrick Pharo
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 9, 2015

This route is very good. A long pitch with a snappy boulder problem followed by a stretch of super fun crack climbing. Area classic. Thanks for putting this one in.
By Ben Sachs
Jul 7, 2016
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Really nice route, not chossy at all despite previous comments. I found it easier than Murica and did not feel it deserved 12+. Perhaps slightly height-dependent at crux. Bring a light rack to #2 c4 heavy on the 0.3-0.5 size pieces. I thought this one was the best on the wall.
By Monty
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Jul 7, 2016

Thanks for the input, Ben, and I'm glad you enjoyed the route. I always thought the route was around 12c, but it was so hard to tell at first. It's nice that the community seems to be coming to a consensus on this one.

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