The name says it all. This was the route that initially caught my eye and remains as one of the best in the park! Bouldery and sustained is the name of the game.
Boulder your way through a roof past 3 bolts eventually gaining a finger crack that peters out just below the anchor.
This is just uphill from where the trail meets the upper corridor. It is the leftmost of the 12s.
4 bolts. Doubles from 0.3 to #1. A red c3 and yellow Alien are very helpful. A red Alien can be useful for a backup.
|Comments on Welcome to Staunton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b
Overall, you guys have done an awesome job with the routes in Tan Corridor, and most climbs readily deserve the stars they're given. I found this route a notable exception. From start to finish, footholds crumbled and handholds snapped off. It seemed more chossy than its neighbors and, compared to Muricah, is much harder. Seemed at least .12+. I'm sure it was better/easier at some point, but it has apparently changed since the FA. Still, I'm not complaining; this little area is a gem, but I just don't think this route is four stars anymore, IMO.
From: Golden, CO
Jul 1, 2013
Glad you got on it, it's great to hear others' thoughts on the route. It is definitely still cleaning up. The last time I was on it, none of the crucial holds were missing, but I agree, it is much harder than Muricuh. I think the movement is 4 stars, and with more traffic, the rock will clean up. On a side note, I always noticed that the rock in the Tan Corridor was much more fragile after storms much like the patina on sandstone. Not your typical granite that's for sure.
Jul 2, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b R
I think this is actually an awesome pitch, especially the stretch along the finger crack on the upper half. It just needs travel, so all the crispiest part of the patina nipples can snap off (check out all the mini-pink scars on the more-traveled routes on the wall; it's just a delicate granite at first). The one thing that struck me is that this is a very committing lead, onsight from the ground-up. The "TCU nest" you can build after busting the hard crux past the third bolt was not super-bomber to my mind; I hung on it but was unwilling to commit to the moves above, so I swung over while lowering off Muricuh and sussed out that sequence, which is hard enough (11+/12a) getting up to where the crack really starts. If that nest blew or even if it didn't, the ground is pretty close. Maybe there is a little nut higher, but I didn't want to dink with it.
IMO, a fourth bolt in lieu of that gear nest would make the route more in line, protection-wise, with the other routes on this wall, and then it might get more traffic and hence cleaner. If not, for me at least it was a fun headpoint.
From: Golden, CO
Aug 15, 2013
After pulling the crux past the 3rd bolt, a bomber yellow Alien can be placed from a decent stance from a finger lock (possibly more if you want). Shortly after this you can place a very good red c3 (a bit of a stretch) backed up by a strange, but solid, red Alien. This will protect the 11+/12a section Matt is referring to above.
With the correct gear (obviously challenging for the onsight), I never felt the climb was dangerous, but as Matt stated, the ground isn't too far away, so place the gear well and you'll be fine. Don't let the gear scare you off, this is an awesome route.