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Fault Line (aka Welcome To Planet Motherfucker) 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Danny Robertson
Page Views: 3,801
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

NoName-36 is not a route that I have climbed. I opted to post it in order to get the photo linked up and display this gorgeous piece of stone. Route 36 looks to my eye to be as difficult a line as I have seen anywhere. I would not be shocked to hear it called 13d/14? It looks that impressive. This wall is close to 45 degrees overhanging, is composed of immaculate limestone, and is just as colorful as it shows here. I know an awfull lot of terrific climbers who could tick this line, and just from the look of it, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend route 36 as a killer project. The hike from the car takes 10 minutes, the base was dry on 20 Jan. It would be interesting to identify the route's author, so far I have not been able to do so.

Protection 

A dozen draws and a rope.


Photos of Fault Line (aka Welcome To Planet Motherfucker) Slideshow Add Photo
Myself dogging slowly up Fault Line. Skillfully bo...
Myself dogging slowly up Fault Line. Skillfully bo...
The stunning upper-left wall.
The stunning upper-left wall.

Comments on Fault Line (aka Welcome To Planet Motherfucker) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 8, 2009
By Jeff Achey
Feb 1, 2002

hey, Richard (and whoever else might be interested in our local choss pile). I bolted line 37, first line on the "Fault Wall," in about 1990 but it kicked my ass. Could do the moves--one at a time at the low crux--but not link them. great climbing on the upper part! i still like to pretend I'll someday get in shape and do the thing, but that's dreamin'. Over the years, others have tried the line, added a few bolts, and drawn "5.13d" in big chalk letters at the base, but also couldn't send. Dave Pegg has tried. To my knowledge, no one has done it yet.I think it was Phillip Benningfield who bolted #37, when he was living in Glenwood. Anyway, this "No Name" crag is known locally as Puoux, and most of the routes were equipped by me, Eric Candee, or Dave Pegg. Most of Eric's routes are chipped, and hence the most popular. The easy ones on the front slabs are old CRMS toprope problems, later bolted by parties unknown. The gnarly, sharp mid-grade climbs (up to about .13a) are mostly mine, and the hard climbs are Dave's. - Jeff Achey
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 2, 2002

Jeff, I'll post a question here in case someone else has additional beta. We humped the North canyon several years ago and did some minor (easy) trad stuff on the large buttress on the West side of the canyon. About the time we were ready to leave, I noticed a white sling about 250 ft off the deck. Search as I might I can't find record of ascents here, however, some very old scuttlebutt hinted that Layton Kor had done some unrecorded FA here. I'd love to learn more about what has actually been done in No Name Canyon proper.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 2, 2002

Jesus, Jeff!!! I've been trying to find the FA group here just buy you all guys a case of beer - or two!! Personally, I think your "local choss pile" is great. Some the stone is erratic, but what's new about that for Glenwood limestone? Just get used to it. I'll make every effort to get the naming, FA data, and grades right - but you may have to fix some it after the fact. I've climbed a lot of this over the last eight years, but not everything. My notes presently indicate 37 routes, although something may have escaped my eye. I have a map drawn up, nothing fancy, and I was using it to line up the photos of the routes. You may have something better. While it sounds like you have snagged the lion's share of things, I do understand that Greg Purnell put in some of the routes. Frankly, I think that the main wall (no photo on CB yet) is simply brilliant. I can't tell you how much wonderful time I have spent - wimpering up these routes.
By Jeff Achey
Feb 4, 2002

you're always a "coward" on your first comment, aren't you? now i'm a properly registered member. i don't know ian, but i'm glad he's putting up routes. "Snagged" is not really the term for FA's here - they're definitely viewed as a public service. I agree - some of the rock is great. If not for the traffic noise, this crag would be a minor miracle. As is, we're still glad to have it. There is also a bit of good-quality granite crack climbing in Noname Canyon proper (due N from the interstate exit ramp). Get in touch if you need more info on this area. i think you have my e-mail address now.
By Jeff Achey
Feb 4, 2002

Oops, I meant Greg Purnell, not "Ian."
By Jeff Achey
Feb 4, 2002

hi, Richard. so we continue our forum in this darkest of corners of the site. Layton Kor used to live in Glenwood, and did quite a few routes in both Noname canyon and at the limestone "Noname" crag (we also call it this, not always Puoux). He also did the "cave" route near the mouth of Box Canyon (AKA Rifle), first rock climb there, I believe. Recently, some local Glenwood climbers have civilized the Noname canyon area quite a bit, building some short access trails, cleaning the routes, and adding rap anchors. This has greatly improved the climbing there. Not sure who's done the work, but some of the guys at Summit Canyon Mountaineering in Glenwood probably know. Richard - why don't you send me an e-mail so I can e-mail you directly and not clutter this comments box. I'm at jachey@sopris.net.
By Michael Day
Sep 25, 2003

I think I remember Jared Micmillian doing the rightmost route on this wall and calling it "yogurt" 13b/c
By Anonymous Coward
May 26, 2005

I was climbing with Don Welsh circa 1997. He put new anchors on 36 and filled in the drilled pockets near the top and bottom of the climb. The route was rated 5.13+ before filling the pockets. Don said the new sequence would put the climb into the .14 range. I am not sure if the climb has been finished in its current state. And Don the stud he is said the climb reminds him of Verdon!!!!!!!
By Andrew Bisharat
Dec 27, 2006

Hi

Danny Robertson, of Carbondale, climbed this route first and called it Welcome to Planet Motherfucker. It's a 5.13d, from what I hear, and has been climbed in its current state.

AB
By Thellickson
Aug 13, 2007

I'm new to this website, but I was under the impression that the line 37 is Gutless Wonder 14a, FA by Andy Raether, then the other line 36 is called Welcome to Earth Mother Fucker, but I'm not 100% on the grade, but I've been told 13b to 13d?
By Paul Barta
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Mar 8, 2009

This route is that line that never gets weathered out! Since it is so heavily overhung, my bros and I have climbed this at all seasons. Regardless of how hard it was snowing/ raining it seems to keep dry very well. Can start out with a sick dyno off a gnar undercling up to your chalked up right hold. Oh yeah, thank you project draws!