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Welcome to ol' Kentuck 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Steve Petro
Page Views: 6,180
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 1, 2008
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Me working the nemesis. First of three in the WTM...

Description 

This is the super obvious overhanging finger crack just right of Brontosaurus. Climb up the easy gully on the left then hit the crack. A couple flared handjams lead to good fingers lead to bad fingers lead to good fingers again. All at a very steep angle.


Protection 

A hand size piece at the start, a 1 camalot, and two .4's. For me anyway. I used a lot more while sussing it out but pared down once I thought I had a chance.



Photos of Welcome to ol' Kentuck Slideshow Add Photo
Placing the last piece of gear, a .4 camalot, from a hold that we called the "bloody ringlock."  It's actually the last decent shake out spot before the wall kicks to nearly 45 degrees on rattly fingers.  Fall, 09, photo by Tristan Croll.
Placing the last piece of gear, a .4 camalot, from...
Comments on Welcome to ol' Kentuck Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 4, 2009

I believe the original name for this was "The Nazi Bitch Crack." Or something to that effect.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2009

That is true- it was renamed when it got freed. NBC was the name of the "aid" ascent.

By JamesW
Apr 9, 2009

true...

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 21, 2011

Just a note, my gear list, once I was done hangdogging it:

equalized 3 & 4 camalot for an anchor off the ledge, then a .75 camalot, then two .4 camalots. This sets you up for a significant fall if you blow the final moves, but there really aren't that many other good spots to place gear from.