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Welcome to My Nightmare 

Welcome to My Nightmare 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Max Jones and John Hoffman in 1979
Season: Spring, Summer, and Fall
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: urs on Jul 2, 2008
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Description 

A very beautiful thin left leaning finger crack which then follows a vertical crack to a small ledge. Traverse the ledge to a bolt and follow the thin seam to another bolt. Now you can either go straight up through the bulge (12a) or traverse right along the original line and follow easy climbing to two bolts.


Location 

This route is just to the right of Nova Express. It is the thin crack that looks impossible to protect but you can find solid pro.


Protection 

This is a trad route so you need small pieces to 1 inch and a number 3 cam with a few slings and quickdraws for the two bolts at the top and the anchors.



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By John Jackson
Jun 27, 2009

This route was lead all trad, no bolts, by the Fa team. Hence the name.