|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Rich Smith and Herb Laeger, September 1983|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By:||limpingcrab on Apr 21, 2013|
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|Comments on Welcome to Little Baldy||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Visalia, CA
Apr 21, 2013
|I gave this four stars for it's potential after a bit of traffic|
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
May 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3.5 stars only because of the little traffic this gets and the amount of moss on it. It would easily be 4 star classic if all those bushes and moss weren't in the way.
Partner and I did this is 3 pitches. I lead pitch one, he did 2 and then link 3/4 together with a 70m rope.
I did a variation when I followed pitch 2 into the giant ledge above. At the small roof, he followed the description and went out right through some slab climbing. I followed and went left because his piece after the slab fell out and I didnt want to take a giant swing if I fell. Going out left was a pretty cool varation and climbs over a small roof on jugs. Maybe a v1/v2 boulder move that can be easily protected if done on lead. Great climb over all. We had a #4 and #5 C4 and a tricam equal to #6 c4. He placed each one but couldve placed smaller stuff further back in the crack.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Apr 24, 2015
The last two pitches are pretty dang classic and the first two are definitely good at times. I thought the beginning of the 2nd and beginning of the 4th to be pretty heads up. At the end of the 3rd, one should downclimb a short ways to belay. Linking 3 and 4 is good beta except i thought the #5 was nice to have on the 4th. The 2nd pitch might be 5.9 if clean, but the 4th is clean and for sure 5.10. Didn't know limpingcrab was a sandbagger ;)
I'm curious how most people choose to start the first pitch..
1 #4 and 1 #5 seemed perfect.
The giant flake on the 4th is freakin out of this world and not as intimidating as it looks from below. It's like laybacking in space
By Dakota R
1 day ago
|This was my first climb in the Sequoia's and it was good. I would definitely agree with Brian's comment about the spicy sections on the 2nd and 4th pitch(get some good gear in above the 3rd pitch's anchor before pulling those thin, delicate moves). I too built my belay at a good stance after a little down climbing at the end of the 3rd pitch. Although the flake felt amazing to climb on I was definitely hesitant to pull hard on it. My lady friend told me at the end of the climb that she had visions of it crashing down on her and cutting the rope! Fortunately, the actual climbing on the flake was quite easy in comparison to the start of the pitch. Fun climb with a relatively easy(a little overgrown) approach and a well maintained trail to walk off. Just remember...Nature provides!|