|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Rich Smith and Herb Laeger, September 1983|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By:||limpingcrab on Apr 21, 2013|
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|Comments on Welcome to Little Baldy||Add Comment|
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From: Visalia, CA
Apr 21, 2013
|I gave this four stars for it's potential after a bit of traffic|
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
May 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3.5 stars only because of the little traffic this gets and the amount of moss on it. It would easily be 4 star classic if all those bushes and moss weren't in the way.
Partner and I did this is 3 pitches. I lead pitch one, he did 2 and then link 3/4 together with a 70m rope.
I did a variation when I followed pitch 2 into the giant ledge above. At the small roof, he followed the description and went out right through some slab climbing. I followed and went left because his piece after the slab fell out and I didnt want to take a giant swing if I fell. Going out left was a pretty cool varation and climbs over a small roof on jugs. Maybe a v1/v2 boulder move that can be easily protected if done on lead. Great climb over all. We had a #4 and #5 C4 and a tricam equal to #6 c4. He placed each one but couldve placed smaller stuff further back in the crack.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Apr 24, 2015
The last two pitches are pretty dang classic and the first two are definitely good at times. I thought the beginning of the 2nd and beginning of the 4th to be pretty heads up. At the end of the 3rd, one should downclimb a short ways to belay. Linking 3 and 4 is good beta except i thought the #5 was nice to have on the 4th. The 2nd pitch might be 5.9 if clean, but the 4th is clean and for sure 5.10. Didn't know limpingcrab was a sandbagger ;)
I'm curious how most people choose to start the first pitch..
1 #4 and 1 #5 seemed perfect.
The giant flake on the 4th is freakin out of this world and not as intimidating as it looks from below. It's like laybacking in space