This route is located on the left side of the prow that is immediately left of "Paradise Lost" which is listed in Rossiter's guidebook. It is a fairly obvious, large, vertical crack.
Start near the base of "Paradise Lost" and trend left into a very nice 5.8 dihedral, through a rotten band that looks more loose than it turned out to be, and get into a nice stem below the wide crack. Arrange protection as desired and attempt to climb it without laybacking. After trying, resort to laybacking. It's only a few burly moves until you can rest and figure out the awkward top out. Arrange protection for your second as best as possible and walk down the back slab to a good belay tree.
This climb got its name from the fact that this was Jenny's first climb ever in Eldorado Canyon and involved a slog up to the crag, a first ascent, and seeing Tony pass out and convulse while leading. Fortunately, in the parking lot she told us that not much could freak her out, and she was right.
The first half of this route takes some nice stoppers and a single set of cams. The second half was protected on the FA by a #4 Camalot and a slung chockstone, done this way it deserves an "s" for ankle breaking potential. A #4.5 or #5 Camalot would have removed the "s".
Note, that because of the way the climb tops out, the second has some exposed moves to make above protection.
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This one is easier than the wide section of West Buttress (5.9). It might become a 10a if you really want to do it as an offwidth instead of the clean, obvious layback that it is.