This is a very nice, diverse finger crack, despite its wandering nature. Start in either of two twin handcracks up to a ledge, pull a really cool roof on jams and jugs, and get established in the wavering finger crack above. There are a couple different ways to go with different crack systems, but both lead to the base of a mini-dihedral. Continue up the steep crack, via good stances, to an ancient pair of rusted bolts. It is possible to lower off here if you want to leave a stopper to back up the bolts, but these anchors are pretty sketch. If continuing to the top, move right onto face jugs for another 20 feet and belay from a tree. 70m would be a good idea, but I'm not sure if it is mandatory.
far upstream end of Beauty Mountain, about a three minute walk past the Thunder Buttress/Supercrack area.
A couple pieces of everything. Emphasis on fingers, but some larger stuff for the bottom (I used a #4 to protect the initial roof move.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Excellent climb, nice and long, great position bring your camera for the top.
Stopping at the bolts is silly and would downgrade both the technical difficulty and the quality of the climb. They are next to a bomber nut placement and clipping them would be cheating in my opinion. They'd probably fail anyways. Plus you would miss out of a lot of good climbing.
Belay at a tree at the top of the cliff, and then walk climbers left down the hill to a series of ledges. From here you can do a single rap w/ a 60m or down climb. Do not use the staple bolts to climbers right... they were put in by "sport rappellers" and you probably won't get down in one rap... if you do you'll tear up your rope pulling it down.