Welcome to Beauty  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  Season:  morning shade, afternoon sun, best in spring and fall. Submitted By:  camhead on Apr 5, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is a very nice, diverse finger crack, despite its wandering nature. Start in either of two twin handcracks up to a ledge, pull a really cool roof on jams and jugs, and get established in the wavering finger crack above. There are a couple different ways to go with different crack systems, but both lead to the base of a mini-dihedral. Continue up the steep crack, via good stances, to an ancient pair of rusted bolts. It is possible to lower off here if you want to leave a stopper to back up the bolts, but these anchors are pretty sketch. If continuing to the top, move right onto face jugs for another 20 feet and belay from a tree. 70m would be a good idea, but I'm not sure if it is mandatory.

Location 

far upstream end of Beauty Mountain, about a three minute walk past the Thunder Buttress/Supercrack area.

Protection 

A couple pieces of everything. Emphasis on fingers, but some larger stuff for the bottom (I used a #4 to protect the initial roof move.