Pitch One: 140 ft. Easy climbing to a bolt 25 feet up and just left of a small arete, then follow the bolts through weakness in roof to the anchors. Pitch Two: Climb right and up off the belay. The second pitch is in your face from the time you leave the belay and it doesn't let up for a long time. Each time you figure out a move and reach the next bolt there is another puzzle to work out. Probably one of the finest face pitches I have climbed in the last thirty years. The bolts will eventually lead you to a slightly angled 2 foot roof. There are jams to be had under it and a hard to see bolt just over the lip.
It is on the right Main Wall. This is the section of the main wall that is to the right of the big black cave. It starts where the oaks are close to the base of the wall and a spot has been hollowed out so you can look up the cliff, about 60 feet right of the cave. The first bolt is about 25 feet up and to the left of small arete. We rapped the route.
By Todd Wise
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nice job on an accurate route description. This well protected climb was fantastic -- the second pitch was filled with epic face climbing involving three mantles and a roof. Just when I thought that I'd met the challenge, things somehow managed to get even more interesting.
You can achieve a walk-off descent by trad climbing ~40' to the top from the second pitch belay.
Welcome to Bald Eagle Peak - Route Photo