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 ADVANCED
5. Slabs
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Beware of the Dog 
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Weissners Butress 
Weissners Dike 

Weissners Dike 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 650', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Fritz Weissner &
Page Views: 2,878
Submitted By: nhclimber on Oct 1, 2009
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Description 

P1-Climb the dike from where the dike touches down to the ground to a 2 bolt anchor under the old man's dog. 5.4

P2-Climb right from the belay through some loose rock and trend up and right staying to the right of the old man's dog, you should go past a 4" birch on this pitch, stay just to the right of it and belay at the start of some 3rd/4th class slabs. 5.4

P3-climb 100' of 3rd/4th class and belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the base of the indented slab.

P4-Climb the right hand margin of the slab, bushy and a little loose till you get to a medium sized tree ledge with a OLD 1 bolt anchor next to a perfect crack. 5.4

P5-Climb straight up from the belay going under an easy roof to a 4" crack in a beautiful dihedral to another roof, pull the roof on the right and you will join the second to last pitch on lakeview near the top. Sinker jams on this pitch. 5.5

P6-The archival hump and the classic corner to the top. Belay off cables. 5.6


Location 

Look at the cliff, find the dike, climb it.


Protection 

Standard Rack



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By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jan 3, 2012

One of my first routes ever on Cannon. The last four pitches are excellent and I am surprised by how little activity this route sees. Possibly due to some negative reviews online. Definitely a better alternative to Lakeview, with an easy option to rappel if the weather gets nasty (if you haven't been trapped on Cannon in a surprise rainstorm.... I certainly don't recommend it). BEWARE of rapid changes in the weather in Franconia Notch people!!