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5. Slabs
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Weissners Dike T 

Weissners Dike 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 650', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Fritz Weissner &
Page Views: 3,931
Submitted By: nhclimber on Oct 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Third pitch


P1-Climb the dike from where the dike touches down to the ground to a 2 bolt anchor under the old man's dog. 5.4

P2-Climb right from the belay through some loose rock and trend up and right staying to the right of the old man's dog, you should go past a 4" birch on this pitch, stay just to the right of it and belay at the start of some 3rd/4th class slabs. 5.4

P3-climb 100' of 3rd/4th class and belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the base of the indented slab.

P4-Climb the right hand margin of the slab, bushy and a little loose till you get to a medium sized tree ledge with a OLD 1 bolt anchor next to a perfect crack. 5.4

P5-Climb straight up from the belay going under an easy roof to a 4" crack in a beautiful dihedral to another roof, pull the roof on the right and you will join the second to last pitch on lakeview near the top. Sinker jams on this pitch. 5.5

P6-The archival hump and the classic corner to the top. Belay off cables. 5.6


Look at the cliff, find the dike, climb it.


Standard Rack

Photos of Weissners Dike Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Watch out for those loose flakes
Watch out for those loose flakes

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By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jan 3, 2012

One of my first routes ever on Cannon. The last four pitches are excellent and I am surprised by how little activity this route sees. Possibly due to some negative reviews online. Definitely a better alternative to Lakeview, with an easy option to rappel if the weather gets nasty (if you haven't been trapped on Cannon in a surprise rainstorm.... I certainly don't recommend it). BEWARE of rapid changes in the weather in Franconia Notch people!!
Jul 31, 2014

I certainly wouldn't give this route a negative review, however anyone who intends to climb this should be aware that the old man rockfall event severely damaged the 2nd pitch. The upper half of the pitch has quite a bit of loose rock on it. Once at the birch tree mentioned in the description, trend up and right. Its still a bit insecure, but not real scary.. also it's more like 5.5-5.6 now.

Also if are in need of retreat above the p1 belay, i would recommend anything other than heading down p2.... you pull the ropes you are likely to get rocks with it. There is a small ledge leading north from the bottom of the big corner that will put you in line with Falling Aspirations. You may have to leave bit of gear, but it's pretty safe and fast.

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