||Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 550', Grade V
|Original: ||A4 R [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Gagner, Jeremy Aslaksen - Oct 14-17, 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||2,737|
|Submitted By: ||Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 9, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: Topo
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Hike like you are going to the Colorado Ridge but cut left a bit lower than the start of DOAD.
First pitch has a couple bolts to A4 beaking to a couple more bolts to a bolted belay.
Pitch two continues straight up for a ways to a bolt then some thin A3 beak cracks to a four bolt ladder back to the thin stuff to the belay.
Pitch three heads right off the belay up into the "Sand Trap" and keeps trending a bit right to a two bolt belay. No lead bolts on pitch. A3ish
Pitch four steps right off the belay into a calcite seam that pretty much goes straight up to the caprock passing a bolt or two. A3. The rock on this pitch blows.
Pitch five is a short easy pitch to a stance right below the summit choss box. Belay at two bolts. You could combine pitches four and five. From the belay, 3rd class to the summit. Downclimb. Rap the route.
South face of the Kingfisher about 40-50 feet to the left of the start to Death of American Democracy.
There is a nice little platform for racking /drinking/lounging and it is possible to belay sitting down so you don't spill your beer. :-)
You can see the first 2 bolts (w/hangers) 15/20 feet up.
10 - #1 Pecker
15 - #2 Pecker
15 - #3 Pecker
1 each small cams (we had Aliens up to red)
1 each angle 5/8 to 1 1/4
2 each cams to #2 (yellow) Camalot
1 each cams #3 to #5 Camalot
1 set of stoppers minus the tiny ones
Bring a belay seat/bosun's chair. You will dig it.
Sep 4, 2014
Second ascent of this route on Agust 2012 by David Palmada "Pelut" and Ester Ollé.