Weiner Lake Routes Rock Climbing

Alaska's only real concentration of sport climbing. The climbing is on a peculiar igneous formation, that is formed into large overhanging stacked pillars. The most common features are cracks, slopers, edges, pinches and random pockets. Expansive views of the Chugach Range with Mt Awesome and Mt Amulet prominent. The Wookie Wall is in the Blue Hole of the South Talkeetna Range. The Wookie Wall gets sun until late in the day and is a great early winter/early spring destination, as it sits in the sun, for the majority of the day. In the warmer months, the best time to climb at Wookie is the morning or evening, as it is a solar collection furnace during the day, reducing the friction of the rock greatly. . Camping is available, just off the side of the road, for free on the right side of the Glenn Highway going east, just past Weiner Lake. The land owners on Weiner Lake graciously allow campers on their lake, which is mostly private property. The camping is confined to the above mentioned area. Please continue to treat this with respect, to maintain as cohesive relationship with the land-owners as possible. The area can become quite crowded on weekends and holiday weekends especially. Weekdays are the best to avoid a crowd. People are generally friendly, yet quirky. Multiple people using each others ropes and gear is the norm for locals here. On the other hand, pay no attention to locals who have run well over 100 laps on most of the routes and refer to the .11+ warm-up as no harder than 5.10a. Being that this is the main sport climbing area of any concentration and quality, running laps and getting beta spewed is common place. Most development to this area is courtesy of Paul Turecki, Grant Walker, Chis Williams, Ben Chriswell, Bruce Adams et al. Do pay attention here, as rock fall is a potential issue, as is breaking holds on lesser travelled routes. Many of the more popular routes are getting their hardware updated. This will typically be reflected in the comment section of the route, with the date it was replaced and with what type of hardware. Many holds have been backed-up/reinforced via epoxy. Also beware that the easier climbs tend to be beta intensive, where as the harder routes are more straight forward and obvious.