Wielandstein Rock Climbing
The cross at the top. Dedicated to Ulrich Seger.
Located at the point of the ridgeline over Ober-Lenningen. Some shade from the trees and from the old watchtower wall, but good quality rock and a lot of flat ground, with a fire pit near the main climbing area.
There are three ways to go into the area, you can hike up the hill from Ober-Lenningen, or from parking to the north or east. The walk is more than worth it though, it's about 2.5 km from the Engelhof and you will walk down a gravel road through some farmers fields.
From the intersection of the 8 and the 81... get off the A8 at the second Kircheim exit, go south on the 465. Turn left at the K1250, will be the second light. Follow the K1250 straight through the first round a bout and then through town until you reach a second round a bout. Take the second exit from that round a bout and drive approx 400M and turn right towards Diepoldsburg. You will still be on the K1250. Follow that up into the hills. 100M AFTER the hairpin turn you will turn right, it will come out of no where after the trees and you will see a sign for Diepolsburg and Engelhof. Turn left at the Diepolsburg and follow the one lane paved road until you reach a large open parking area. From the parking (.25 miles) from the Engelhof, it is around a 20-30 minute walk in. the trail to the climbing area is the second right off the main trail that starts at the end of the paved road. The signage is very good and if you don't see the first one for weilandstein (red diamond) within 50M you've gone down the wrong trail.
Climbing Season For the Germany area.
Weather station 16.8 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Wielandstein
Froshkonig 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Europe
: ... : Wielandstein
Climb up the southwest corner of the wall of the tower. There are the 4 bolts, but with some of the bricks being polished out and others coming loose it can get run out. Side pull of the corner on the right and you'll get past the crux over the second bolt, then use some big reaches to finish off the last couple of moves and top out. You'll need a long runner to be able to set up a top rope from the anchor site at the top of the wall. View is rediculously good and you are storming a damn castle ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
View of the inside of the tower from the top of th...
By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Mar 18, 2016
MP user J Lederhosen informed me that Wielandstein is now closed due to rock fall. 400 cubic meters of stone slid down into the Tobel Valley, and with it at least 1/3 of the routes here. Experts are looking into what can be done with the area to make it safe again.
By Chris Vredeveld
From: Stuttgart Germany
Jun 21, 2012
The guidebook shows 6 more routes past the bulge in the face at the right of the grillplatz... However, it also points out that a large portion of the old rock wall fell off (about 2 tons of material) in 2007 and there is still some coming loose. I checked it out and there ARE bolted routes still in there but the belays are bad.