Weißenstein Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The gully-like yet climbable section of Weißenste...
The most popular climbing area in Frankenjura. There are almost 50 routes here ranging from UIAA 2 to 9+ (5.1 to 5.13a), so there is definitely something for everyone. This is also a very kid friendly place and it even has a nice port-a-potty with a mirror and no stink! Amazing! While there is obviously bound to be some polish on the holds of the most popular crag in the Frankenjura, the routes are all VERY good quality. The rock is very pocketed allowing for lots of great holds.
The left side of the crag is where the easier stuff is. The rock is generally straight up, though some routes are a bit slabby while some others are a bit overhung.
The right side of the crag is quite overhung and is home to some very good 8s (5.11s - Entsafter, Dampfhammer, Wilde 13).
Wolfgang Guellich and Kurt Albert spent some time honing their skills and putting up some routes here. Some good Wolfgang selections are Verlobungsweg (7-), 1. Affäre (7), and Krampfhammer (9). Some good Kurt selections are Panische Zeiten (7+), Dampfhammer (8), and Entsafter (8+).
The name means "White Stone".
The area is also very kid-friendly with the even, grassy area. And you don't even need a stroller for this short approach!
Driving here is also relatively uncomplicated. From Nuremberg, take the A9 to the Plech exit (Exit 46). Head towards Plech. After driving through Plech, head towards Neuhaus and stay on this road through Höfen. After leaving Höfen, continue straight for approximately 1.5km until you see a turn-off on the left which is probably full of cars already. You'll also be able to see the rock from here. Drive past the exit of the loop and enter on the Eingang side to park here. Get out and walk straight up to the route you want to do. You may have to wait in line...
Climbing Season For the Frankenjura area.
Weather station 23.0 miles from here
31 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Weißenstein
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Weißenstein
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Weißenstein:
Featured Route For Weißenstein
Dampfhammer 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Europe
: ... : Weißenstein
Its hard to say which is the best line on this magnificent cliff, but this Kurt Albert masterpiece is certainly in the running. With impeccable stone, massive jugs throughout, and perfectly gymnastic movement, the climbing is engaging and memorable from bottom to top. An undercut start leads to easy liebacking along the obvious flake, and a good stance below the looming headwall. A surprisingly sequential series of long, monkey-like swings leads up the steep bulge. The holds just get bigge...[more] Browse More Classics in International
The right side of Weissenstein, with climbers on D...
BETA PHOTO: Yellow is Zwischenfall, Black is R 7, Blue is Akku...
My mom after her first climb at 54 years old!
BETA PHOTO: Red is Mondnavigation (5+), blue is Trepperl (7-),...
BETA PHOTO: Blue is Lukas, red is Schlingenweg, yellow is Beam...
Most of the routes here have some degree of overha...
BETA PHOTO: Red is Eieruhr, Blue is Don't Worry Be Happy, and ...
The yellow route is R 3, blue is Boulderwandl, gre...
The overhanging nature of the routes on the right ...
BETA PHOTO: Just 6 of the 20 routes, variations, and traverses...
The parking area next to Wiessenstein is a 1 minut...
A relatively low crowd for Weissenstein.
By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Jul 3, 2011
A little comment on pigtails, since the majority of the routes here use them. If you are going to be running a train on the route (lots of people toproping it), then go ahead and clip two quickdraws in and run the rope through those. If you're just leading, you can either place a quickdraw or two or a locker, or you can plug the rope straight through the pigtail. To do this, take your rope in your hand, reach up and lift the pigtail away from the wall. You will see that on both sides there is an opening. Run your rope through the opening on one side, then the other and your rope will lie safely within the pigtail and it won't come out unless you personally guide it back out or pull your rope through.
By Matthias Lang
May 19, 2012
One of the best crags here with a high concentration of classics. Unfortunately it is also very popular and most of the holds are polished which makes the footwork a bit sketchy.