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Weevil Knevil 

Weevil Knevil 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 11/98
Page Views: 1,542
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007
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Description 

A fun and somewhat varied route... There is a powerful hard crux and a pump crux... The rock is interesting with quarts deposits making for some cool moves...

Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but i never refuse a rest when offered one)... Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business... An awkward left hand hold is troubling but after a gastone or a crappy crimp (you decide) you will be rewarded with a good right hand... A few more moves get you to a mid way ledge... Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped)... Find the good holds and clip the chains... Topping out is fun...

This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style... Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12...


Location 

Middle left end of the cliff just right of the corner of barking spiders (5.11c)


Protection 

8 bolts to chains with fixed lower biners...



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 25, 2009

It's also fun to start on Barking Spiders and then head right to finish on Weevil. This avoids Weevil's bulge crux but allows you to do the upper headwall.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 26, 2009

oh! oh! oh! could we call it the barking weevil :)

By S. Neoh
Aug 12, 2013

No send yet but felt a bit easier than Stoned Temple Pilot to me. Pumpy finish for sure.