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Weevil Knevil 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 11/98
Page Views: 1,834
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Alexandre Rivest high on Weevil Knevil

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun and somewhat varied route... There is a boulder problem crux and a pump crux... The rock is interesting with quarts deposits making for some cool moves...

Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but i never refuse a rest when offered one)... Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business... An awkward left hand hold is troubling but after a gastone or a crappy crimp (you decide) you will be rewarded with a good right hand... A few more moves get you to a mid way ledge... Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped)... Find the good holds and clip the chains... Topping out is fun...

This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style... Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12...

Location 

Middle left end of the cliff just right of the corner of barking spiders (5.11c)

Protection 

8 bolts to chains with fixed lower biners...


Comments on Weevil Knevil Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 25, 2009

It's also fun to start on Barking Spiders and then head right to finish on Weevil. This avoids Weevil's bulge crux but allows you to do the upper headwall.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 26, 2009

oh! oh! oh! could we call it the barking weevil :)
By anna.gutwin
From: Burlington, VT
Jul 20, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

On the lower crux a left hand undercling helped gain the good right hold without needing to use the crappy crimp/pinch. I'm 5'6" and it was a doable reach for me.
By S. Neoh
Jul 20, 2014

Agreed. I am 5'5" and I make the reach readily with the left hand undercling and a high right foot. The end is the business IMHO.