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 ADVANCED
Misery Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
False Perspective T,TR 
Fat Man's Misery TR 
In the Way T 
Life of Jam T,TR 
Pillow Right Side, The T 
Pillow's Edge T 
Pillow, The T,TR 
Smoke Hole T,TR 
Tree Slot Chimney T 
unnamed route to left T,TR 
Wailing Wall TR 
Weeping Wall TR 

Weeping Wall 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 761
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Dawson Robb squeezing the thin stuff

Description 

Weeping Wall is the face on the left side of Misery,to the left of False Perspective. Both corners are off, as are the good holds way left.

A very hard start (unless you have it wired) gives way to easier climbing. Plan on having trust in the frictional properties of quartzite if you want your feet to stick.

Protection 

Standard TR gear--may have been led.


Photos of Weeping Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Weeping Wall (2) and False Perspective (3)
BETA PHOTO: Weeping Wall (2) and False Perspective (3)
Weeping Wall (2), False Perspective (3), Wailing Wall (4), Fat Man's Misery (5), Pillows Edge (6), and The Pillow (7).
BETA PHOTO: Weeping Wall (2), False Perspective (3), Wailing W...

Comments on Weeping Wall Add Comment
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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Aug 12, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this for the first time this weekend and really enjoyed it! The comment in the description of the route about the "Frictional properties of Quartzite" are right on. While I was being lowered my shoes were slipping down the rock and making a squeeking sound. Ah, that lovely polished Quartzite...

The crux here is definitely down low. A couple of tricky sidepull holds and slippery footing are all you have to work with. I might also mention that a good reach helps. Altogether a great climb!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 9, 2003

There was a rumor floating around some years back that John Long may have led this back in the day. I have no idea if Long even visited the Lake, and this rumor may be one of the more dubious Devil's Lake legends.
By Stephen Schaefgen
May 9, 2003

Jay,

I heard the same rumor. Meaning, that he visited here. I seem to think not, due to the fact that he is more of a wallrat, than a short route guy. Hmmmm....

It would be interesting to find out. I'll e-mail him.
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Apr 24, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

False Perspective is a nice challenge. The puzzle is at the bottom, but generally it is a sustained climb. I huffed up it this weekend and had a blast.
By Tony Brengosz
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Led this today, with a good brass offset in the gaston at the start. Not much gear for a ways after that, but the climbing eases off quite a bit.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 7, 2011

I led this ground up onsight last night. I got in the good brassie that Tony mentions then a 00 BD MicroCam in a horizontal to protect the first 20 feet or so. I hugged the right side near the arete adjacent False Perspective and was able to get in a great Ball Nut in a horizontal placement.... then I got the great wired nut placement and 00 Metolius TCU in the thin crack at 2/3 height..... Good cam placement near the top in the horizontal where the neat sharp flake sticks out to protect the top out.... You gotta wander a bit to get the good placements on this but they are there.... the climbing gets easier as you get higher.... crux is definitely the start moves.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Nice OS Burt. Though short this route is definitely a good 5.9 in the Park.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 8, 2011

I TR'd it after leading it and it felt closer to 5.10a if you climb straight up the middle....