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Follow the line of three pins and then over the small roof/bulge to the top of the west fin of Three Graces. The 5.11a crux can be avoided by lassoing the 2nd pin with a sling and staying to the left (5.10). Tying the pin off short may be a good idea anyway: it sticks out a fair amount from the rock, and the ring is rusted solid at a cross-loaded angle. Pulling the bulge direct felt 5.11a-ish, moving left and mantling into the large hueco is 5.10.
Since this route is rarely climbed, expect dirty and crumbly holds. It is a bold and scary route.
Follow the obvious 3 pins on the west face of Three Graces. There are no anchors at the top of this climb. (Rolofson's guide mentions a large horn that can be used as an anchor, but I couldn't find one. There is a bulge up top that could perhaps be slung with 15-20 feet of webbing, but you'd have to leave it behind to rap down, which is a no-no at GotG.)
Finish on the 5.2 The Window
to a 2 bolt/2 pin anchor with chains at the top of the formation and rap down either side (use a 60m rope for the west side). Weenis is very difficult to clean on rappel.
3 old pins, no anchor. Small cams might offer pro under the small roof, but that would be redundant to the 3rd pin. If you finish on The Window
, some small cams and a set of nuts might come in handy if you don't want 60 feet of runout to the top (5.2 X).
By garrett knorr
May 25, 2016
I climbed this route yesterday finishing at the top of Three Graces and rappelling back down the way I came to retrieve my gear (it was an interesting rappel). Let me tell you the second piton is sketchy as hell! I would not trust a lead fall, but the rest of the pitons were OK by Garden standards. Minus the second piton and the sandy holds, it was actually a really fun route. The runout above the third piton is a little unnerving, but I don't think it would be a groundfall, just really far. If that piton was replaced, I might actually do the climb again. If anybody wants to replace it and wants help, shoot me an email (firstname.lastname@example.org), and I'll help and/or pitch money for a new bolt, because for some reason I actually kinda liked the route and don't want to see anyone hurt on it.