Weekend Warrior  5.12c/d

1,452 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, TR FA:  [Randy Farris, FFA] Submitted By:  Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a great lieback, hand, finger, crack on a boulder southeast of the descent from the Book. After descending the third class rock sections of the Book, walk 50 yards south east to find a 40 foot boulder with a right slanting bolted flaring crack on its west side.

This route can be toproped clipping the bolts for directionals. The crux occurs right off the ground with hard 5.12 liebacking to gain the flared crack. The crack itself is also solid 5.12 with sequential thin hand jams and a pumpy 5.11 finish. A great route. Tape up!

Protection 

Ironically this is a bolted crack; at Lumpy Ridge no less. Some day this may be led on natural pro, it is certainly possible for all except the first twenty feet.