This route is one of the best hand cracks that I have done at shelf. There are some tricky moves to get started, but then enjoy perfect hand jams for the next 40 ft. There are a pair of anchors on a ledge about 65ft up to keep the route at 5.10c. The 5.11b extension goes above the ledge with 3 bolts. These are well spaced and a fall at the wrong time would put you on the ledge. A few TCU's and small cams will make this more enjoyable. The finger crack on the 2nd half is fun, but the crux comes at the last bolt. I think you need to veer left or right at the last bulge. I could not figure out the straight up variation. Fun route with the crux at 90ft.
Draws, and a few TCUs for the 2nd half of the route.
|By Joe Collins|
Jun 1, 2004
Nice first pitch, though it really shouldn't be bolted... even at Shelf.Lots of loose stuff on the 2nd pitch... it really needs a LOT more cleaning. I went hard left at the last bolt... not much there straight up. This goes easily in one pitch with long slings in a few places.
|By Jesse Ryan|
Oct 13, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice 1st pitch, 2nd pitch barely worth doing. I too went hard left at top. Watch out for wasps.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2008
My notes said 10c for the whole route. When did the extension go in? After Y2K? Cause I would not have stopped before the top and I didn't call it 5.11....
Anyway, what can someone say about bolted cracks, other than that they are bolted. Hard to give it stars as such.