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Original Meat Wall
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Wee Doggie T 

Wee Doggie 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,274
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Sep 15, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Above the cruxy start of Wee Doggie.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the far, far right of the Original Meat Wall, before a forming inset arch, you will find a zig-zaging vertical splitter hand crack that turns into a less than vertical thin hands left facing dihedral. Killer moderate climb that gives a friendly thin hands section if your looking to break into that size.

Protection 

1BD #.75's, 3-4BD #1's, 2-3BD #2's, 1-2BD #3's It used to sport a one bolt & a fixed hex anchor, but I've been told it was upgraded.


Photos of Wee Doggie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Carling at the top of the lower section of Wee Dog...
Carling at the top of the lower section of Wee Dog...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Keegan walking his "Wee Doggie"
Mike Keegan walking his "Wee Doggie"
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Beguin Leading Wee Doggies 5.10-
Scott Beguin Leading Wee Doggies 5.10-
Rock Climbing Photo: wee doggie
wee doggie
Rock Climbing Photo: wee doggie
wee doggie
Rock Climbing Photo: Perropirana crusin the  Wee Doggie (5.10-)
Perropirana crusin the Wee Doggie (5.10-)
Rock Climbing Photo: wee doggie
wee doggie

Comments on Wee Doggie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
Oct 13, 2003

There is a two bolt anchor.
By Zach Allen
Apr 5, 2010

Two bolt anchor with bail biners, no rings. Placed high enough to be just out of reach from the obvious stance at the end of the route. (why?) Could use some chains and/or rings. Fun route, though.
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

My opinion of why the anchors are set so far back, they make nearly no contact with the bulge at the top out, causing zero damage to the rock. Take a look at the anchors on "Flakes of Wrath" on Wall Street in Moab.


Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Damage on Flakes of Wrath
Rock Damage on Flakes of Wrath
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 19, 2012

I disagree. At issue is where people place their protection as that pulls the rope under the roof. Also, in this rock, you can't just place an anchor anywhere. Large flakes break off on Potash and the bulge is in a large flake.
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Apr 9, 2014

Cleaned a snarl of old tat at the anchor. If I beat you to it next time it'll have new chains rather than decomposing nylon at the anchor. For now, slings to quick links off the bolts.

Fun route, first of the day, pretty much a wake up right off the ground, then cruiser.
By jomey
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Apr 7, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Protected the start with a BD #0.5 and 0.75. After that it is a cruiser.

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