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 ADVANCED
Jimmywood
Routes Sorted
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38 Special S 
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Bear Mountain Picnic S 
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Finger Puppets S 
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Mammy S 
Miss Prissy S 
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Ruben S 
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That Orange Hat S 
Wedgie S 
Wet Willie S 

Wedgie 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Jones, Cathy Crooks - 1993
Page Views: 307
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 19, 2010  with updates from michelle sexton

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Description 

A tough little short route, Wedgie can be eased off a bit by going slightly left of the bolt line (5.9 variation). The route can also be done on toprope by leading Wet Willie and making an easy traverse left to the Wedgie anchors.

From the ledge, fairly easy climbing will get you to the first bolt. A tricky sidepull sequence leads to thin climbing past two more bolts to the top.

This route has now been retrobolted by Darryl Bornhop with permission from Steve. From the chains, it has been extended to the top finished with a beautiful sequence of overhanging, traversy moves, a full 30 meters!

Location 

Jimmywood area; starts just left of Wet Willie.

Protection 

Three bolts, bolted anchors. The retro-bolt extension continues with more bolts above.


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