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 ADVANCED
7. The Slabs
Routes Sorted
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Beginners Direct T 
Beginners Easy Variation T 
Beginners Route T 
Booklet, The T 
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 
Dark Horse T 
Fingertip Trip T 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 
Interloper  T 
Man O War T 
Ninth Wave, The T 
Sea of Holes T 
Slabs Direct T 
Sliding Board T 
Slipshod T 
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 
Standard Route T 
Stop if you Dare T 
Tidal Wave T,S 
Waiting for Comeau T 
Wave Bye Bye T 
Wave Length T 
Wedge T 
White Wilderness T 

Wedge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,064
Submitted By: Jason Stone on Nov 14, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 (C.Sullivan)

Description 

Wedge is a great climb located on the open slab between Sliding Board and Sea of Holes. The route offers some great slab climbing as well as some low angle face climbing. The route protects well but be ready for a couple of your typical Whitehorse run outs.

P1. From the starting ledge, head up and left to some obvious clumps of bushes. You can belay your partner here or continue up to a two-bolt anchor. If you choose to continue on to the two-bolt anchor, climb up approximately 15ft. until you reach a comfortable stance at a solution pocket. Place a #1 Camalot in the pocket and have your partner take you off belay, as you will need to simo-climb the last 20ft. to the anchor.

P2. Climb straight up the blank slab passing a two-bolt anchor and a single protection bolt. When you reach the headwall, clip the old rusty piton and traverse right to a comfortable ledge. You can make a 3-point anchor using the rusty piton, a nut and a small cam.

P3. From the anchor, head up the slab and climb the nice lay back crack. At the top of the crack, clip a bolt and make thin moves up and right to gain a nice ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Do not forget to protect your partner on the traverse to the belay ledge.

P4. Climb straight up to a large pine tree used to rap the route. If you use the fixed gear on this pitch, be sure to use long runners, as you will generate a lot of rope drag if you donít.

Note: Most parties will rap the route from here using the pine tree, P.3 anchor, and Sliding Board belay stations.

P5. If you choose to top out, climb up and left of the pine tree to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge until you reach a corner with some old pitons in it. Climb the corner to the tree ledge above.

Note: The rock will have a lot of lichen on it so be very cautious as you climb the corner to the tree ledge.

P6. To reach the top, find the path of least resistance keeping in mind that you will want to head up and to the right. Stay roped together and protect yourself and partner by slinging trees and or placing gear as you make you way to the top. It is all scrambling/simo-climbing so take your time and be very cautious.








Location 

From the starting ledge, look for a clump of bushes up and to your left.


Protection 

2 60-meter ropes
1 Set of Stoppers
1 Set up Cams to a #2 Camalot
4 Quick Draws
5 2ft Slings
1 Cordellette

  • Extra webbing if you need to replace any when rappelling the route.



Photos of Wedge Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 4 (J.Stone)
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4 (J.Stone)
Pitch 2 (J.Stone)
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 (J.Stone)
Pitch 1 of Wedge from the starting ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Wedge from the starting ledge.
Pitch 3 (J.Stone)
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 (J.Stone)
Rappelling off of Wedge via Sliding Board.
BETA PHOTO: Rappelling off of Wedge via Sliding Board.
Pitch 5 Corner (C.Sullivan)
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 5 Corner (C.Sullivan)
Carol Halupowski on the fun 5.6 crux corner on pitch 3
Carol Halupowski on the fun 5.6 crux corner on pit...
Comments on Wedge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Sep 11, 2010

if anyone can help me im wondering do you have to repell from the top of the route or is there a trail to walk down,and do i have to use 2 ropes

By Jason Stone
From: Bellingham, MA
Sep 22, 2010

If you go all the way to the top, there is a trail that leads back down. If you decide to rap the route from any point, you will need two ropes.

By Chris Mak
Apr 29, 2012

Agree that the first 4 pitches to the tree ledge are great - beautiful, clean slab. You can run pitches 3 and 4 together pretty easily with a 60m. In its current shape I would definitely recommend rapping at the ledge, P5 is ok, some fun steeper climbing but fairly mossy, and above that is a dirty moss and pine needle jungle for 2-3 pitches until you reach 1 more pitch of decent rock for the finish.

By John Ski
From: Intervale, N.H.
Jul 7, 2014

Removed frightenly-ancient tat from P.3 anchor and replaced with new webbing. Did a nice variation that goes up between Wedge P.2 and Interloper's lower crux, protected by a small nut in a flake 5.9