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Wedge-O 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 2/1991, Mike Strassman, Eric Ellis
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: Jon duSaint on Dec 12, 2006
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John Howland finishing off Wedge-O

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Description 

Climb pillar, then step to main face at slightly chossy section. Head up the steep face after this.


Protection 

12 bolts



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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 8, 2007

Well protected but the undercling section (3rd bolt maybe) has a bit of gravel at the feet. Just as I was yelling down for my belayer to watch for rocks....there one went. Steep and pumpy with only the 1 choss section lower.

Apparantly this route orginally was run-out and superchoss. Most of which has been cleaned up with traffic and 6 bolts added to the current 12 bolts with Mussy Hooks anchor.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 8, 2007

This is a good route that may change if you pull off a kinda loose and large key undercling at mid height.

By kelly r cordner
Apr 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

Excellent, well protected endurance warm up route. Compares to Valley 5.8 in difficulty.

By Brian Chastain
Dec 3, 2013

^Not sure about the person down grading and adding a PG13 to a route not even 100' with 12 bolts^

The only thing PG13 about this route might be for the belayer.

In any case, this was a fun route. Certainly more pumpy than the climb to the right. Nothing particularly hard here, just a lot of the same movement.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Dec 7, 2013

Not PG 13 if you don't fall. Might be worse if you do in the wrong place. I would not want to fall on 2 of the bolts in the pillar especially making the move right of it into the chossy section. Also the crux is making a move back left, you blow that clip and you just might land right on top of the pillar.

By maggie-girl
Feb 1, 2014

Definitely agree with the pg-13; amount of bolts doesn't matter if you can still fall on a pillar.
I have never felt great about this as a lead.