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(4) Music Hall
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Wedding Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 848
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Apr 3, 2011

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D. Kuo nears the finish ledge

Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>


The five meter crack on the northeast-facing wall of Music Hall reveals the start of Wedding Route. Getting off the ground and into where it becomes a shallow right-facing dihedral is the crux. Beyond this the climbing is about 5.5. Follow the crack, with intermittent horizontal cracks, until it disappears, then continue up through blocky bands and beautiful quartzite patches towards the large, obvious ledge. This route will have endless traffic on any kind of decent weekend day, so either get here early or prepare to stand in line.

This route can easily be done on trad gear, and makes for a fantastic way to learn. A stronger leader might want to pre-place some gear to protect the first few moves, or just clip the bolt. The rest of the route has tons of gear options.

From the anchors at the big ledge, you can continue to the top via a 5.4 ramp (I call it The Honeymoon Extension) or up the juggy overhanging face via Small Triangle more aptly translated as "The Mistress".


Approach as for Music Hall. After you dip down towards the sea, passing under the Whale's Head, and rise back up, you will see the large alcove of Recital Hall about seven meters above the large platform. Wedding Route starts just to the left of this. Or, the route farthest to the right on Music Hall wall. Faces northeast.


Dangerous lead bolts(2006)
Titanium anchor (2016)
Gear to 3"

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By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 10, 2016

The 5th, 6th, and 9th lead bolts failed during pull-testing due to SCC. They have been removed. The route is currently unsafe to climb as a sport route.

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