|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||greg k on Dec 14, 2010|
|Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>|
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By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Mar 2, 2013
There are so many routes that start at the same spot of the Clocktower that finding the "correct" line for this can take some figuring out. For my first few ascents of this route, I was actually doing something that isn't listed as a route or even a variation in any guidebook.
The route Diagonal starts at the same place, but traverses across the wall through the thin hands crack (10d).
The route East Arete starts just around the corner to the right, pulls an overhang, and continues up through easier ground to the ledge, staying on the corner the whole time.
This route begins just below the fins and cracks that are the most obvious features of the Clocktower east face. If you follow the more continuous crack on the left side of the overhang, the route is 10a. It's really only one move. But if you stay about five feet to the right, essentially starting as for Diagonal, but not straying right onto East Arete, then you are doing what can only be called a variation, I'll call it Wedding Night. It's probably more like 10c/d, as it is continuously overhanging, and the crux comes from pinching the slopey fins... very little jamming to be had. Just before the ledge, you can step right, or do a direct finish of essentially a single move. This variation is, in my opinion, the best option.
Save your #3 for just above the ledge.
From: Taipei City
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Like Nate said the loads of features in the rock allow for plenty of options, but going by the book you go into the concave section straight into the overhang. Solid 5.10 climbing with some jams to be had as well as loads of pinches and sidepulls. Place your cams, pass the concave section and you're golden.
The best anchors to get down on are a ratty looking but probably alright pair of tubular webbing slings, with an equally ratty looking but probably ok pair of rap rings.