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Midnight Rock
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Weather Report S 

Weather Report 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe, 1997
Page Views: 1,235
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Climbers on Weather Report.

Description 

Nice, face climbing up the clean arete at the base of Midnight Rock. Start about 30 feet down the hill from the big roof. Make some hard moves to get started up to the first bolt, then breeze the rest of the climb. Great climbing and quality rock.


Protection 

9 QDs to a 2-bolt anchor; a 60m rope is required to lower off this one.



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By Kreighton Bieger
Jan 1, 2001

I thought this route was a chossy piece of crap. Dirty, lichenous rock and crumbly holds. I also found the mantle above the second bolt and the finish to be contrived, somewhat difficult and very unpleasant climbing. Just a different opinion.

By Anonymous Coward
May 28, 2002

I'll second Ben's two star opinion. Definitely fun clibining. My only qualm is the slghtly inflated grade, there are 5.8's in Dream that are harder.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002

I like this climb. The start is steep and pumpy and a little reachy, with varied face and layback moves working up past the first four or five bolts. The middle section (if you stay to the right) has some delicate slab climbing, and the upper section has some steep stemming and face moves. I don't recall any lichenous rock, unless you wander left in the middle of the route. Fun, varied climbing: two stars in my book. Also solid 5.9, especially for shorter people.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found this route contrived and I don't think it's 5.9 if you follow the easiest line.

By shad O'Neel
Feb 1, 2003

Really nice moderate line; lots of variation in technique. First it's almost steep face moves (probably the cruxiest section), watch the loose block near clip 3. Then turn the corner, run it out a little over 5.5 then clip the 2 slabby bolts, then stem through a juggy corner to reach the anchor. This is a great climb for someone who's starting to lead 5.9 sport routes, or starting to try to feel comfortable above protection. It's pretty easy, so you wont be stressed, but the bolts may seem further apart than a beginner wants them to be, but breathe, it's easy with any hard moves being well-protected. Oh- you could definitely safely climb this one on gear.

By jeff sallen
From: San Diego
May 20, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Extremely fun climb. Be careful clipping the first bolt, it is a bit of a reach for the shorter climber. The upper section of the pitch was very fun and exposed. If you are looking for a nice mellow moderate, hop on this one

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 11, 2004

The crux comes right off the ground, getting past the first bolt. After that it's a relatively easy cruise.

By david goldstein
Sep 29, 2006

1 move wonder, but the rock seemed mostly clean and solid. Note that there is a long runout on easy ground after the fourth bolt which may be protected with finger size cams.