This is an outstanding route well worth the effort. It is rather void of the typical piss Shelf holds and will tax your body, not your fingers. The crux starts with the first 2 bolts and can be quite a reach for those that are shorter. To follow are a few strenuous lieback moves to a really good flake system. Be careful here, I can see this block coming off one day. An almost no hands rest awaits before fighting the pump to the top on good holds. This route will be a classic with more traffic.
This is the second route from the end of Spiney Ridge in between Quoting Yoda and De Gaulle Syndrome.
11 bolts. This climb is well-protected.
|By Scott W|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 6, 2013
Gets 12d/13a in the new guidebook. Not sure what grade is true, felt pretty hard for 12c.
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I got on Head Cheese right after this and compared to that, I definitely agree with the 12b/c rating.