Climb up an easy slab towards the left edge of the roof band. Enter the left-facing corner and enjoy the fun moves. Lieback and stem to conquer the crack and two small roof pulls. There is a small arÍte inside the corner that leaves you feeling a little exposed. The climbing eases out at the top, unless you climb out on the face and head for the anchors (not recommended due to hollow-sounding flakes). A great direct start to the Standard Ridge or a good way to get to the Rush Wall.
"One of the best and sandbagged crack lines in BCC." -TP
Climb up from the belay tree over an easy slab to the obvious dihedral. Follow the cracks to the top of the wall and traverse East to the slings. A 60 meter rope is needed to descend to the belay tree.
The start can be hard to find. The best way seems to be to hike west and uphill from Hollowman crossing the talus and wrapping around a bench/ledge system that brings one around the corner into a gully. Spot a small pine tree below a north face and the crack system is behind it. (there usually is some webbing around the tree).
Medium gear at the bottom. Wide gear for the top. No bolts. There is a fixed pin at the top of Le Rap Et Tap along with slings for the descent, otherwise there are no fixed anchors. I think a rack of doubles up to #2 camalot would be sweet, (1) #3 camalot. Stoppers and hexs would be nice too. Slings.
BETA PHOTO: Wealth of Nations.
A buttshot? Yes...but you can see how steep the mo...
|By glen kaplan|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 15, 2006
This really is a great climb, well worth doing, with fantastic poisition and air in that section of the canyon.
We set up a hanging belay to the left of the tree as it was a more comfortable belay and provided a straighter line for the rope.
On the rap, we did two raps to a loose ledge...that heads off back towards Challenge Buttress instead of scrambling down the ledges towards Narcolepsy.
There is still a ton of rock up there!!!
Rap et tap tap or whatever looks fricking hard!!!
|By Pete Spri|
Aug 6, 2009
Crux is more of a ringlock size crack through the roof as opposed to a "hand-crack" which is what the book calls it.
Fun, but as stated earlier... short, like most of the rest of the moves on the Standard Ridge route.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Aug 1, 2010
I remember approaching this with a bit of hubris. How hard could a 5.8 actually be?
Just getting to the start was a bit of a pain. We tried the left side of the block and I admit it was hard! I agree that this sucker is sandbagged.
|By John Steiger|
Jun 3, 2012
A better approach to the pine tree at the base of this and Le Rap is to cut across the ledge system from Starstruck (see that route for the lower part of the approach). As you work left (east) along the ledge, in the vicinity of Creaking Plank, there is a short third class section dropping down maybe 15 feet and climbing 15 feet back up to the break, but it is pretty casual. Also, the anchors atop Le Rap are now bolts with chains.