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Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems 
Bird Brain Boulevard 
Cavegina 
Chock Up Another One 
Chockstone Chimney 
Choppo's Chimney 
Cinnamon and Cider 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds 
Dumpster Diver 
Fistful of Steel 
Fractured Fairytales 
Going Retro 
Goldline 
Hairy Devil 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The 
Killer Pillar 
Local Scoop, The 
M6 Corner 
M7 Crack 
Maid to Order 
Mile 4 
Negligent Behavior 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) 
Ribbon, The 
Rusty Cage 
Senator Gulch 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The 
Skylight 
Slip Sliding Away 
Slippery When Wet 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) 
Talisman, The 
Tasty Talks 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte 
Wake Up Call 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene 
Weak and the Weary 
Unsorted Routes:

Weak and the Weary 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c M5+ R

   
Type: Trad, Mixed, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c M5+ [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime you get the tools out
Page Views: 319
Submitted By: Noah8000 on Feb 19, 2013
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Erik on P1 of Weak and the Weary.

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Description 

This climb is pretty cool, though it may be awkward at times. It's worth it. The first half of P1 teases you into thinking it will be great cams the whole way. As San Juan choss goes, it's usually another story. With creative gear placements, you get by. The crux of P1 is pulling the interesting roof protected by a LA or KB, stoppers, etc. We belayed at the ledge soon after off of KBs.

P2 starts off steep, but soon you mantle onto a ledge and climb another easier vertical groove only to mantle again. This mantle required trimming a bush for a few minutes that was overhanging the groove. The last part is a small headwall with no pro. There is a groove full of bushes on it. I climbed a little right of them with a move or two of 5.8?ish. Don't fall, would be pretty ugly. That being said, the moves aren't hard and the rock ain't bad on that section.

The route is worth the climb.


Location 

The route is located in the slot of Chock Up Another One on the right-facing wall. It is slightly uphill from M6 Corner and slightly downhill from Chockstone Chimney.


Protection 

LAs, KBs, baby angle, a standard mixed rack. We used a #5. We came down Chock Up Another One. I almost left the LA in the P1 roof, but it wasn't good enough to leave.



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Erik on P1 of Weak and the Weary.
Erik on P1 of Weak and the Weary.
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