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We Refuse to Grow Old and/or Up 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Martin Veillon, Ed Brenick
Page Views: 1,152
Submitted By: Ben May on Nov 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Anchors to the right of the block at top. 4 bolts....

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an easy but really fun route. It too has some variety such as... using the hueco-like friction holds instead of all the crimpers. The crux section depends on how you want to send this route, whether or not you prefer finger destruction on crimps... (it's harder to use the friction holds to the left).

Location 

First bolt line to the right of King of Pain 5.9+

Protection 

bolts


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 22, 2010

""The crux section depends on how you want to send this route.""

Can you elaborate and repost it on your route description?
By YesOnPie
May 31, 2011

Great little sport climb. The climb is closer to 50-60ft with about 5-6 bolts. I didn't find a crux but the foot work was delicate throughout the climb. There is a very solid anchor setup that is not illustrated in the SD guidebook. It is also listed as a trad climb as well for some reason in that guidebook.
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Actually, the route is around 50' with a total (4) bolts. The anchor consists of chains with screw links. We felt it was kinda soft for a 5.7, regardless on how you climb it. Plenty of great holds along the way.
By tom donnelly
Oct 15, 2012

This route was always done with all great gear placements until it was retrobolted a few years ago. There is bomber gear every 6 feet, mostly sized from blue Metolius to about .75 Camalot, plus a nut or two. Need extra orange Metolius/.5 Camalot. The anchor is very convenient.
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