We Don't Toprope
||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Original: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA: ||unknown, pre-1999 -- FRA: John Biehn, 1999 -- FFA: Will Adsit and Lowell Miyagi, Oct. 23, 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,156|
|Submitted By: ||Will Adsit on Dec 2, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: WDT starts in the corner to the right of the climb...
Well, okay, sometimes we do. But we didn't that day!
Not a classic, but something else for others who, like us, have climbed everything at Chatfield more times than they can count. After having eyed the line for a few years, I finally decided to ground-up it. As far as I know, no one else has bothered in more than 10 years, except for Dr. Miyagi, of course.
Facing the cliff, around the right of the arete to the right of Forearm Frenzy is a short dihedral corner, overhanging to its left and kind of dirty. At the top and just to the left of the corner are a couple of ledges about 15 feet up. Start in the corner, climb up the dihedral until you can step over left and pull yourself onto the ledge about 15 feet up. Follow a very small "ramp" onto a first, proper ledge. (5.5)
Above the set of ledges is a short vertical face about 7 feet tall. Once on the first ledge, tend left and get on top of a second ledge a few feet higher (there's a prominent horizontal crack just above this ledge). From here, traverse out left until near the edge of the arete and then go straight up the face on its left side, which means surmounting the short vertical section using crimpers and a high step, to find yourself below a very easy slab. (crux, 5.6/5.6+) (The crux feels surprisingly exposed and committing for so short and otherwise easy of a climb.)
From there, stroll up very easy, Super Slab-like terrain to the top-out, where a number of gear anchor options await you. (5.2)
See description above.
Standard rack will do it, assuming that includes some smaller cams, even some microcams. All trad. Many gear anchor options at top.
Be aware: the route and pro wander for the first half or so of the climb.
Be warned: Top-roping is not advisable without extreme caution, as you will run the risk of the climber falling over the left edge at the crux, where a scary swing over knife-sharp edges awaits. The same logic holds for the leader and the second; the leader should place pro in the easy terrain to help limit the second's potential to go over the left edge. Basically: Be very wary near that left edge, especially when cruxing.
BETA PHOTO: Ascending the "ramp" to the set of ledge...
BETA PHOTO: Right in there somewhere is the crux of WDT. The c...
By John Biehn
From: Madison, CT
Mar 18, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good to see people leading at Chatfield! Great spot and some of the routes protect excellently!
Although the FA of this route probably came long ago... It was actually the first route I ever climbed there back in '99 and I'm sure had been climbed before than.
By Will Adsit
From: New Haven, CT
Mar 24, 2011
Duly noted. Thanks for the additional background on this very obscure route!