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Billboard Buttress
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We Dive At Dawn 

We Dive At Dawn 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Howard King and Scott Stuemke, 1977
Page Views: 2,111
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 26, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Brant Allen on "We Dive at Dawn".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This route is right in the center of Billboard Buttress. Just look for the nice crack that's dying to be climbed. Tricky initial section leads to a left-leaning bit, then on up easier ground to the top. The old guide indicates that you climb around the left side of the top. You can also just break right to a big crack, slip the #4 Camalot in there, and climb the thin face straight to the anchor (expect this to feel hard and scary!). Rap from the top.


Protection 

Standard rack. Nuts and cams. Bolted anchor on top.



Photos of We Dive At Dawn Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Parks 1/2 way up. Photo 12/04 by Tony Bubb.
Chris Parks 1/2 way up. Photo 12/04 by Tony Bubb.
My buddy Rob seconding my lead.
My buddy Rob seconding my lead.
Following up the start of "We Dive At Dawn"
Following up the start of "We Dive At Dawn"
"We Dive At Dawn". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"We Dive At Dawn".
Photo by Blitzo.
Having fun on "We Dive At Dawn". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Having fun on "We Dive At Dawn".
Photo by Blitzo.
An unknown climber on 'We Dive at Dawn' in Indian Cove. Photo 12/04 by Tony Bubb.
An unknown climber on 'We Dive at Dawn' in Indian ...
We Dive at Dawn is the prominent left-leaning crack that begins as a thin seam at the start.
We Dive at Dawn is the prominent left-leaning crac...
Comments on We Dive At Dawn Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003

Best to rap (single rope) from anchors atop Driving Limitations, since there are no chains on the We Dive at Dawn bolts.

By Woody Stark
Nov 18, 2003

I've climbed this route numerous times, and I'm firm in my belief that it is a solid 5.8. Also, it's an excellent route that deserves three stars.

By Brian Reynolds
Dec 16, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Definitely solid 5.8. The first move onto the face at the end (I guess you could call it a "direct finish"?) is pretty thin, but there are better hands if you move a few feet to your right.

By Woody Stark
Dec 19, 2003

A further comment: Be sure to place two points before taking off on the first twelve feet or so. Place them as high as possible even if it means stepping up on the obvious hold and having someone hold the leader in place to do so. Also, it's a good idea to have the belayer stand on the rock at the base to supply a soft cushion if the leader falls and the pro goes along for the ride. That saved my bacon once. The initial moves are getting a bit harder due to the rock getting greasy. For an eight, this route has a history of numerous falls in the first few feet. Also, there is a tendency for the pro to pop out with semi- horizontal stress. Enjoy. Oh, one more thing, breaking right at the top bypasses a challenging final problem. Don't be a wuss.

By Ryan Avery
Feb 26, 2005

I led this one without putting pro in the first 15 feet. I would agree with Woody that you should throw a small stopper in. As for the "bomber cam" above mentioned, I saw nothing but poor alien placements in the first few feet.All the placements were solid and came along at just the right time for me. Solid and fairly sustained 5.8 for the first half to the ledge.I didn't have a large cam with me so the final face moves were really run-out. Traverse right if you really can't handle the runout but it is much more rewarding to do this one the right way.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jan 14, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

There was one ok small placement low but it wasn't more than 6 ft off the ground so what's the point. There's a perfect green C3 at about 12 feet on your left (just below the level of the bolt on the route to the right), a little work getting there but it's really not that bad. After that it can be sewn up if you wish.

By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Jul 1, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

Anchors on top of this were replaced. The old chains were removed and brand new stainless rap-rings were installed courtesy of the ASCA. Part of on going project to improve the asthetics and safety of the bolts in the Indian Cove area.

By Rodger Raubach
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I just bouldered the start this past weekend, and it's definitely not a 5.7/5.7+; I'd be tempted to call it 5.8, and NOT a "minus." That said, this is a nice climb that I first did back in 1986. It seemed kinda' hard even then.

By Tim.Brown
Jan 15, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Dive at Dawn, with the crux at the bottom, is a 5.8. I think the reason people rate this easier is that the rest of the route is fairly straight forward and broken by many steady, stable rests. If the crux section was furhter up, I don't think there would be much discussion.