We Dive At Dawn 

Best to rap (single rope) from anchors atop Driving Limitations, since there are no chains on the We Dive at Dawn bolts.

I've climbed this route numerous times, and I'm firm in my belief that it is a solid 5.8. Also, it's an excellent route that deserves three stars.

Definitely solid 5.8. The first move onto the face at the end (I guess you could call it a "direct finish"?) is pretty thin, but there are better hands if you move a few feet to your right.

A further comment: Be sure to place two points before taking off on the first twelve feet or so. Place them as high as possible even if it means stepping up on the obvious hold and having someone hold the leader in place to do so. Also, it's a good idea to have the belayer stand on the rock at the base to supply a soft cushion if the leader falls and the pro goes along for the ride. That saved my bacon once. The initial moves are getting a bit harder due to the rock getting greasy. For an eight, this route has a history of numerous falls in the first few feet. Also, there is a tendency for the pro to pop out with semi- horizontal stress. Enjoy. Oh, one more thing, breaking right at the top bypasses a challenging final problem. Don't be a wuss.

Monday,I watched a young fellow lead the first fifteen feet of this route without pro. He was tentative and backed off a couple of times before finally making the moves. This is a dangerous route if the leader doesn't protect the first few feet: you'll land on the rock at the bottom if you blow it. It can be protected with an excellent, small stopper and a bomber, small cam a bit higher. Many people don't carry the small wires and that's a mistake. In a previous note, I said that there was concern that the pro might pull if one falls with horizontal stress; I now think the cam won't. Further, If the moves get any greasier, It will be a solid nine.

I led this one without putting pro in the first 15 feet. I would agree with Woody that you should throw a small stopper in. As for the "bomber cam" above mentioned, I saw nothing but poor alien placements in the first few feet.All the placements were solid and came along at just the right time for me. Solid and fairly sustained 5.8 for the first half to the ledge.I didn't have a large cam with me so the final face moves were really run-out. Traverse right if you really can't handle the runout but it is much more rewarding to do this one the right way.

The first 15 feet are harder than 7+. Maybe over the years it has become more worn out 'cause it was a bit tricky.

Getting Slick! 5.7+?

There was one ok small placement low but it wasn't more than 6 ft off the ground so what's the point. There's a perfect green C3 at about 12 feet on your left (just below the level of the bolt on the route to the right), a little work getting there but it's really not that bad. After that it can be sewn up if you wish.

I led this route several years ago and thought at the time it was a stiff 5.7

Anchors on top of this were replaced. The old chains were removed and brand new stainless rap-rings were installed courtesy of the ASCA. Part of on going project to improve the asthetics and safety of the bolts in the Indian Cove area.