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WC Zero 1
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Jan 21, 2013
the little purple guy - has anyone ever fallen on one while on free lead? climbnplay
Joined Jun 21, 2011
23 points
Jan 23, 2013
okay I guess some first hand testing has to be done then! climbnplay
Joined Jun 21, 2011
23 points
Jan 23, 2013
Have fun with that Adrian Allred
From Tucson, Arizona
Joined Jun 9, 2011
4 points
Jan 23, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
i've seen a grey OOO C3 hold a pretty big fall before...the 1 is similar in size...they usually arent the best piece to fall on and should be nested if possible

T
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
311 points
Jan 23, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
the purple Z1 is rated 3KN and goes from 5.5mm-7.8mm theres no way in hell its holding more than body weight...but knock yourself out, just wear a helmet and make sure an actauly free sized and rated placement is right next to it. Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
118 points
Administrator
Jan 26, 2013
Even if that thing was strong enough to hold a fall, I wouldent trust it to do so. The thing is basically a nut. It has no expansion range at all. You could go from 100% cammed to 30% with 1kN. I wouldent use the WC Zero 1 at all, not even for aid. You are just asking to take a whipper if you place a cam that small. And if you are using that small of gear, you are likely on A3+ or harder which means your whipper is going to be big. You are better off using a RURP, beak, KB, or something of the like (if you cannot get a nut to hold). I guess some would argue that a RURP is not very secure, and it's not; but I find a well-placed small pin to be more secure than a micro cam. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,009 points
Jan 26, 2013
I fell on one a while aid climbing...I was aiding out a large horizontal roof, and the Z1 was probably my 3rd piece, the next piece pulled and the Z1 caught me...no issues, no lob deformation or breakage, but my second could not get the cam out...A few weeks later another friend rescued it and gave it back to me...it seemed no worse for the wear...not sure if I would trust it for much more than that... goatdavemac
From Flat Rock, NC
Joined Mar 16, 2011
25 points
Jan 29, 2013
awww yeah...that's what i like to hear :) climbnplay
Joined Jun 21, 2011
23 points


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