Wayout Wall Rock Climbing
Perched high on the western edge of Crane Mtn., the Wayout Wall offers a lot of exploratory climbing. As of 2011, there are few established routes here: 3 put up in the mid-1990's, and a few more put up in the dwindling days of this season.
The cliff faces WNW to SSW from left to right. It is visible from Garnet Lake Road (and from the lake, if you paddle out onto it).
Composed of highly-metamorphosed gneiss, similar to Pok-o-Moonshine and Pitchoff cliff, the Wayout Wall features a series of joint-type vertical and horizontal cracks, exfoliation flakes, and slabs at both ends.
The crag is about 600' wide, with a maximum height of about 150'.
This is a wilderness cliff. Expect solitude and NO help; i.e. self-rescue is your only feasible option.
There is cell phone reception at some points on the cliff.
From the state trailhead, walk west along the base of Crane Mountain about twenty minutes, to the trail which heads uphill toward Crane Mtn. Pond. Follow this trail for a couple minutes, to the point where it begins to climb steeply, then bushwhack, contouring west (climber's left). Note that you are now crossing private property.
Pass a waterfall about ten minutes after leaving the trail, and about five minutes afterward, head down and away from the mountain, reaching a good log road that parallels the mountainside. Follow this until it turns sharply downhill; at this point, follow a trail cut through second growth as it continues to contour along the base of the mountain. This trail crosses a stream at a natural stone bridge by a gigantic, 3-pc boulder. Walk up onto the ridge behind this boulder and continue westward.
The Wayout Wall looms far above at this point; the approach continues along the easy low bench until reaching the lefthand side of it. Here, difficult class 3,4, or even low 5 scrambling get to the base of the cliff near Bulwark and Stepping Stones.
Total approach time from the State trailhead: 1 1/2 hours.
Climbing Season For the Crane Mountain area.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Wayout Wall
Bulogna 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NY
: ... : Bulwark Block
While the initial cracks offer decent pro placement, the middle 8' of climbing is the most difficult and doesn't have any cracks. One can TR off the same anchor used for Bulwark, but directionals should be used.Climb left onto the outside edge of the Bulwark book, making a blind reach to a good crack. Climb the crack to its end. Face climb to another crack, then to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in NY