Wayne's World 

You can just barely get down with a 50m rope with a little rope stretch so watch those ends.

Wayne's World, named in memory of a family friend who passed away tragically in 1998 while I was installing the route.(I'm quite fond of the film as well !) Anyways, as the route author interested in getting consensus on the grade I think 5.11 b/c is closer 10 years after it went up, but this climb used to feel easier for me than for others.(NOT SPRAY, PLEASE BELIEVE ME ! Ha Ha) I would attribute this to familiarity after installing the route and later climbing it at least 10-12 times (the last time about two years ago, I had to hang at the 7th bolt myself!.) I'm in total agreement the 5.10 b/c is inaccurate today after holds you mentioned (red streaks) are gone. . . making the climb harder. I would suggest that the moves and sequence you felt might be 5.12 by the 7th bolt are 5.11 b/c, but NOT obvious based on what I've witnessed watching others. For me (biased) this somewhat devious sequence of moves merits the repeating or redpointing of the climb. I also like that it's one of the longest single-pitch bolted climbs on MSH at 85 ft. I like the airy feel of the climb though it's not for everyone. You are not alone CAUGHTINSIDE in your perceptions. Somebody else installed the bail link to lower off the 7th bolt a few years ago. In order to make lowering-off safe from there I added a bolt with a link creating a sub-anchor. (I feel the climb is 5.10- up to the sub-anchor.) I climbed the route with no falls to the top on my first attempt in 1998. The first ascent experience was not a permanent one (an unfortunate side affect of the route cleaning up.) Despite this, I, like your partner, still enjoy repeating this climb.

Hi Eric, thanks for the info, I made a few changes to the route entry. I left in that I thought it was .12 to show the world what a weenie I am and keep my ego in check. That move is hard and devious! When I got to the crux and saw the rock scars I figured it was really a 'holds broke old guidebook rating' sandbag, thanks for confirmation.

I'd agree w/the .11b/c rating - 2 years ago I had noted .11a, but after getting on it again yesterday b/c feels more appropriate. Slipped once at the crux, pulled through clean the 2nd time. I personally enjoy this route - very different climbing than the rest of the bear (rest of the mountain for that matter - most similar to Satellites (the prow)), nice long varied pitch with the business toward the end.

Did this route for the first time a few days ago. Rope solo onsight (well as close as you can get with a soloist tying knots) Grade seemed to be easy to mid 11. I thought it was an OK route. Thanks Eric. Reach high and right for a suspicious hold, then crimp to the undercling, and span left.