Wayne's World, a great movie in it's day but not a great route! I was tempted to bomb it such was my hatred, but my parter liked (!!) it (on toprope of course!) so I gave it a star.
It's on it's own separate tower at the Bear crag. The start is ok, off vertical delicate moves that feel like slab moves, but you're pulling on sharp positive sidepulls and sanding on small pointy feet.
Pull a bulge after 2nd bolt, and wander up some low angle gully for a bit. The bolt line felt contrived to me through here, even though I hate calling things contrived.
On to the upper wall, I again stayed right of the bolt line. From the ground, you may spy a quicklink on the 7th bolt. I suspect this may be a semi-permanent bail feature because it's where things get downright nasty. There is a shallow pocket, a small roof, and another pocket up higher and to the left. How you connect these features is a mystery to me, I couldn't find any feet that would stick and ended up pulling through on the draw. Things ease a tad up higher, but the climbing is still thin and difficult.
Maybe I just want to bomb it because it was called .10b/c in the guide I had, which it is definitely not. I don't know if it is .12a, (EDIT: Changed to .11b/c with info from FA) but the move is very thin and difficult. There are several red scars around the crux, so key holds may be gone.
Party time? Noooot!
Excellent? As if!
Right most route on the Bear, kind of on a separate tower.
9 bolt to chain anchors.
From: Oakland CA
May 5, 2008
You can just barely get down with a 50m rope with a little rope stretch so watch those ends.
|By eric berghorn|
May 6, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wayne's World, named in memory of a family friend who passed away tragically in 1998 while I was installing the route.(I'm quite fond of the film as well !) Anyways, as the route author interested in getting consensus on the grade I think 5.11 b/c is closer 10 years after it went up, but this climb used to feel easier for me than for others.(NOT SPRAY, PLEASE BELIEVE ME ! Ha Ha) I would attribute this to familiarity after installing the route and later climbing it at least 10-12 times (the last time about two years ago, I had to hang at the 7th bolt myself!.) I'm in total agreement the 5.10 b/c is inaccurate today after holds you mentioned (red streaks) are gone. . . making the climb harder. I would suggest that the moves and sequence you felt might be 5.12 by the 7th bolt are 5.11 b/c, but NOT obvious based on what I've witnessed watching others. For me (biased) this somewhat devious sequence of moves merits the repeating or redpointing of the climb. I also like that it's one of the longest single-pitch bolted climbs on MSH at 85 ft. I like the airy feel of the climb though it's not for everyone. You are not alone CAUGHTINSIDE in your perceptions. Somebody else installed the bail link to lower off the 7th bolt a few years ago. In order to make lowering-off safe from there I added a bolt with a link creating a sub-anchor. (I feel the climb is 5.10- up to the sub-anchor.) I climbed the route with no falls to the top on my first attempt in 1998. The first ascent experience was not a permanent one (an unfortunate side affect of the route cleaning up.) Despite this, I, like your partner, still enjoy repeating this climb.
From: Oakland CA
May 6, 2008
Hi Eric, thanks for the info, I made a few changes to the route entry. I left in that I thought it was .12 to show the world what a weenie I am and keep my ego in check. That move is hard and devious! When I got to the crux and saw the rock scars I figured it was really a 'holds broke old guidebook rating' sandbag, thanks for confirmation.
|By Cam Parry|
From: Calistoga, CA
May 26, 2009
I'd agree w/the .11b/c rating - 2 years ago I had noted .11a, but after getting on it again yesterday b/c feels more appropriate. Slipped once at the crux, pulled through clean the 2nd time. I personally enjoy this route - very different climbing than the rest of the bear (rest of the mountain for that matter - most similar to Satellites (the prow)), nice long varied pitch with the business toward the end.
From: Petaluma California
Nov 4, 2010
Did this route for the first time a few days ago. Rope solo onsight (well as close as you can get with a soloist tying knots) Grade seemed to be easy to mid 11. I thought it was an OK route. Thanks Eric. Reach high and right for a suspicious hold, then crimp to the undercling, and span left.