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Tufa City
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Way 'Stead S 

Way 'Stead 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Luke Anaya, Brent Bingham, Larry, Zach Anaya
New Route: Yes
Season: haha, shade, or winter.
Page Views: 1,510
Submitted By: Red on Oct 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Got to love a mantel for the anchors!
Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun and hard tufa pulling. The first twenty feet are nothing special, but the following thirty feet are great. Really fun movement over cool features. Crux is at the top.

Unfortunately, the last bolt is in a less than favorable spot. I would have placed the bolt closer to the clipping stance, but the rock was very hollow sounding when tapping it with my hammer. I even went as far as to drill a hole where I wanted the bolt and got nothing but dust, no rock. I placed it in the closest solid stone. The clip adds a little inconvenience, but at least it is safe.


Location 

It is the last route on the right side of Tufa City before you get to the rope access that leads to Tufa Yard Dash and the other routes at that ledge.


Protection 

Bolts to wire gate shuts.



Photos of Way 'Stead Slideshow Add Photo
the crux
the crux
Way 'Stead - way wet after storms.  Picture was taken before I put the hardware in.
BETA PHOTO: Way 'Stead - way wet after storms. Picture was ta...
nearing the crux
nearing the crux
pulling into the first hard move
pulling into the first hard move
Home free, just before the mantel.
Home free, just before the mantel.
In Tufa We Trust!
In Tufa We Trust!
Comments on Way 'Stead Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 1, 2014
By Red
From: Arizona
Oct 24, 2011

Thank you to everyone that supported me on this route! It was a journey I'm very happy I went on!

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2011

Nice FA Luke!

By RyanJames
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great job Red and thanks for the route!

The upper 30 feet of this thing is so good! Sweet, hard moves over fatty tufas! What could be better!?!?

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 25, 2011

Congrats Luke!!!!

By Red
From: Arizona
Oct 25, 2011

Thanks guys! I look forward to watching others enjoy this line!

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Looking forward to getting on this one. Can't wait for this weekend perfect conditions.

By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Nov 4, 2011

awesome Red... great job... I can't wait to try it!

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Nov 8, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Super Fun features. Kinda loose rock leads to great tufa climbing to a crux just before the anchors. Tip for shorter people extend the last bolt so that clipping is easier. Well bolted red.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 8, 2011

Hey Pat how is this well bolted if shorter people have to extend a draw? Poor Yunyin. Damn you Lucas! Ha ha.

By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I did this route and thought it was overall thought provokingly awesome tufa climbing. I thought the bolts were where they needed to be. I agree, the bottom is just toast, but the top portion is creamy butter!

By Red
From: Arizona
Nov 14, 2011

Nice work T~w/B! I'm pretty sure you grabbed the third accent.

This route saw a lot of traffic this weekend; three more sends with one being a flash. Very fun to watch! Already six sends in its first month, good stuff!

Eric, as far as I know, Pat is the only person to extend the last draw. The person that flashed it is not taller than you.

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Nov 17, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

@ Eric, The one thing that Red forgot to mention about the guy who flashed it he's a 13+ climber. So yeah. There goes that argument.

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jan 6, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Here is some send footage.

By Joseph M.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Great Route! Big thanks to Big Red for putting in the time and money!!

By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 1, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Awesome route!!!
Powerfull big moves on cool holds and Tufas.
Doesn't get much better!!