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Way of the Wizard 

5.9

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Jen Yuen stemming the start of Way of the Wizard.

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Description 

Go up a gully on the right side of Wizard Rock to a short steep corner with a black streak leading to a lower-angle slab. The route starts in this corner, near a tree stump.

Stem the corner past two bolts and step left (crux) onto the slab. Fun slab climbing (5.7 to 5.8) leads to the anchors.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is 70' long.



Photos of Way of the Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Christa Cline at the crux move left by the second bolt.

Christa Cline at the crux move left by the second ...

Christa Cline moving up the slab.  The anchor is visible on the skyline.

Christa Cline moving up the slab. The anchor is v...

Wizard Rock.  The four bolted sport routes are shown in the photo, which was taken from the summit of Avalon.

BETA PHOTO: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are sho...


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By shad O'Neel
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.7+

Nice climbing, very similar to the route on Avalon, Incline Club. This felt fairly easy for for 5.9 though, I thought maybe one 5.8 move.