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Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Way of the Wizard 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 844
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Jen Yuen stemming the start of Way of the Wizard.

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Description 

Go up a gully on the right side of Wizard Rock to a short steep corner with a black streak leading to a lower-angle slab. The route starts in this corner, near a tree stump.

Stem the corner past two bolts and step left (crux) onto the slab. Fun slab climbing (5.7 to 5.8) leads to the anchors.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is 70' long.


Photos of Way of the Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the slab above the crux.
On the slab above the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline at the crux move left by the second ...
Christa Cline at the crux move left by the second ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the slab from the anchor.
Looking down at the slab from the anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline moving up the slab.  The anchor is v...
Christa Cline moving up the slab. The anchor is v...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wizard Rock.  The four bolted sport routes are sho...
BETA PHOTO: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are sho...

Comments on Way of the Wizard Add Comment
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By shad O'Neel
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice climbing, very similar to the route on Avalon, Incline Club. This felt fairly easy for for 5.9 though, I thought maybe one 5.8 move.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This certainly is not 5.9. It has a 5.8 move but, only one.

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