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Wizard Rock
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Christal Ball 
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Way of the Wizard 
Wide Jadodat 
Wizard Shuffle 

Way of the Wizard 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 743
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 9, 2002
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Jen Yuen stemming the start of Way of the Wizard.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Go up a gully on the right side of Wizard Rock to a short steep corner with a black streak leading to a lower-angle slab. The route starts in this corner, near a tree stump.

Stem the corner past two bolts and step left (crux) onto the slab. Fun slab climbing (5.7 to 5.8) leads to the anchors.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is 70' long.



Photos of Way of the Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at the slab from the anchor.
Looking down at the slab from the anchor.
Christa Cline at the crux move left by the second bolt.
Christa Cline at the crux move left by the second ...
Wizard Rock.  The four bolted sport routes are shown in the photo, which was taken from the summit of Avalon.
BETA PHOTO: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are sho...
Christa Cline moving up the slab.  The anchor is visible on the skyline.
Christa Cline moving up the slab. The anchor is v...
On the slab above the crux.
On the slab above the crux.
Comments on Way of the Wizard Add Comment
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By shad O'Neel
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Nice climbing, very similar to the route on Avalon, Incline Club. This felt fairly easy for for 5.9 though, I thought maybe one 5.8 move.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This certainly is not 5.9. It has a 5.8 move but, only one.