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Snickers - North Face
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Way of Life S 

Way of Life 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ivo Ninov and Dave Griffith
Page Views: 1,179
Submitted By: Josh Harding on Apr 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Perfect timing to have a shoelace undone?!

Description 

Climb up 5.7 ramp to six bolts that traverse out right for 30 ft. Straight forward movements till the end, beware of loose blocks and grit. Distinctly uncharacteristic of JT climbing, worth doing.

[A slightly harder variation can be done at the last bolt - mountainproject.com/v/alternate-finish/107870426.]


Location 

Located on the far left end of the North face of Snickers, obvious large corner/roof system.


Protection 

One or two hand sized pieces, 6 bolts. Two bolt anchor with tat and leaver biners.



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Looking pumpy already!
Looking pumpy already!
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2014
By Nick Barczak
Apr 19, 2011

I've always wondered what this thing was. The steep but juggy climbing feels unusual for Josh. Super fun! Feels about 5.11b.

By Tommy L-D
Apr 20, 2011

Awesome route, very uncharacteristic for Jtree.

Still needs a bit of cleaning up, we loosed quite a few chunks(up to brick sized), would HIGHLY recommend belaying from the ledge on the slab rather than directly beneath the climb, otherwise the belayer might want to bring a helmet.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 18, 2011

An excellent short video of the climb.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 27, 2012

Hey Roberto, what do you mean by the bolt came out on you? Did it pull out in a fall? Did it pop out under rope tension on a take? Did the entire bolt plus sleeve and cone pull out? Did the rock blow out?

By Roberto
From: La Jolla, CA
Feb 27, 2012

caughtinside,
I was leading when i got the to that bolt i had to push it back into the rock before i could clip it. It was sticking out about an inch and pointing slightly down towards the ground. i clipped it and the piton (which appeared more safe than the bolt, but who knows on old fixed gear).

My buddy was cleaning the route and he was able to easily pull the bolt out by hand. So yes, we pulled the bolt out. The bolt hole was much larger than the bolt and the expansion sleeve. It was pretty much just cammed in the hole.

So yes, we did pull the bolt, but that bolt was unsafe! Furthermore, there is a hold ready to break above it and IF that bolt pulled it would result in a bad fall onto the slab.

If and when that bolt is replaced it should either be placed way above the old placement with a wire extension or glued into the soft rock where it was. The first option would be ideal.

If there is major issue with the bolt being pulled I apologize and i would gladly repay the first ascensionist. I prefer that option over someone getting hurt.

i hope that helps.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 27, 2012

Thanks for the explanation, I was just curious how it came out. I think you did the right thing. Hopefully people will see the bolt is missing before they head up!

By Roberto
From: La Jolla, CA
Feb 27, 2012

We took a piece of broken stone and wrote. "Missing bolt" at the base of the climb.

I hope people see it.

By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2012

The missing bolt on Way of Life has been replaced with the permission of the NPS. There is a new 1/2" bolt close to where the old 3/8" bolt was. The new bolt is in slightly better rock. Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware.

By Randy
Apr 18, 2014

"Permission" to replace (or place) bolts on this crag is not necessary as it does not lie in designated Wilderness.