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Leading Way Nutter. Photo taken by Brian Weinstein...
The offwidth about 20 feet left of Blue Sun, starts as hands and gets rapidly wider...but there are plenty of small ledges for rests after most moves.
Great shady climb in the am,
Camalots #4, 4.5, and 5 all very usefull
Brett demonstrating how it's done.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Feb 24, 2005
FA: the Nutter, Nov. 2001. FA nicknamed by Heavy Duty for driving from Denver to the Creek almost every weekend the previous spring.
|By Andrew Klein|
Mar 15, 2005
I climbed up to the base of the offwidth and it looking painful and all, I led out right to climb a nice little finger crack to a block (which appears to be loose, but is actually quite stable) to a loose ledge and back left to the anchors (this is another option if you don't have a lot of big gear to lead the crack-which isn't that bad using the ledge/face holds on the left). Cheers, AK!
|By Stefanie Van Wychen|
From: Golden, CO
Mar 21, 2005
If you skip the offwidth of this climb, you've skipped the best part. It might look hard, but if you get up in it with your right side, there are some easy mantelling moves on the left wall.
|By Danny Inman|
Mar 24, 2005
This route is a great warm up. The hand crack at the bottom is great and the off-with section is really fun. There are plenty of rests from which one can easily place protection. I liked this one better than Rochambeau. Also, be careful at the top near the anchors, there is some loose rock up there that I nearly knocked down.
|By brian benjamin weinstein|
Mar 24, 2005
Be advised... there is a massive loose block about 30 feet up and a bit to the right of the crack. it's pretty obvious from the ground but when climbing it may be tempting to yard on it. My advice (which I didn't do myself) is to stay in the crack throughout the route.
From: Berkeley, CA
Nov 17, 2008
#6 Camalot was real useful at the top.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 17, 2008
Fun route! I agree that a #6 Camalot is really nice to have.
|By Sara Ann|
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Apr 6, 2011
You want one if not TWO number 6s at the top. I levitated one for a while, and then wished I had another. Crack's too wide for a five up there.
Apr 7, 2011
i wish i could levitate items. then i could just leave half the rack on the ground and levitate it up to me when i need it. maybe a sandwich too, while i was at it.
|By Jordon Schaefer|
Oct 29, 2012
I climbed this on a 4, 5 and 6 (all C4) and didn't feel like I was running it out at all. Just bump your cams, standard offwidth technique. The top was the best part.