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Way Nutter 
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Way Nutter 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad, 40 feet
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Ben F and Micah Dash
Submitted By: Joe Santambrogio on Oct 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (88)
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Leading Way Nutter. Photo taken by Brian Weinstein...

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Description 

The offwidth about 20 feet left of Blue Sun, starts as hands and gets rapidly wider...but there are plenty of small ledges for rests after most moves.

Great shady climb in the am,


Protection 

Camalots #4, 4.5, and 5 all very usefull



Photos of Way Nutter Slideshow Add Photo
Joe Santambrogio

Joe Santambrogio

Brett demonstrating how it's done.

Brett demonstrating how it's done.

Spring 2012

Spring 2012

all tubs

all tubs


Comments on Way Nutter Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 24, 2005

FA: the Nutter, Nov. 2001. FA nicknamed by Heavy Duty for driving from Denver to the Creek almost every weekend the previous spring.

By Andrew Klein
Mar 15, 2005

I climbed up to the base of the offwidth and it looking painful and all, I led out right to climb a nice little finger crack to a block (which appears to be loose, but is actually quite stable) to a loose ledge and back left to the anchors (this is another option if you don't have a lot of big gear to lead the crack-which isn't that bad using the ledge/face holds on the left). Cheers, AK!

By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Mar 21, 2005

If you skip the offwidth of this climb, you've skipped the best part. It might look hard, but if you get up in it with your right side, there are some easy mantelling moves on the left wall.

By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Mar 24, 2005
rating: 5.9

This route is a great warm up. The hand crack at the bottom is great and the off-with section is really fun. There are plenty of rests from which one can easily place protection. I liked this one better than Rochambeau. Also, be careful at the top near the anchors, there is some loose rock up there that I nearly knocked down.

By brian benjamin weinstein
Mar 24, 2005

Be advised... there is a massive loose block about 30 feet up and a bit to the right of the crack. it's pretty obvious from the ground but when climbing it may be tempting to yard on it. My advice (which I didn't do myself) is to stay in the crack throughout the route.

By coreylee
From: Berkeley, CA
Nov 17, 2008

#6 Camalot was real useful at the top.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 17, 2008

Fun route! I agree that a #6 Camalot is really nice to have.

By Sara Ann
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Apr 6, 2011

You want one if not TWO number 6s at the top. I levitated one for a while, and then wished I had another. Crack's too wide for a five up there.

By slim
Apr 7, 2011
rating: 5.9

i wish i could levitate items. then i could just leave half the rack on the ground and levitate it up to me when i need it. maybe a sandwich too, while i was at it.

By Jordon Schaefer
Oct 29, 2012

I climbed this on a 4, 5 and 6 (all C4) and didn't feel like I was running it out at all. Just bump your cams, standard offwidth technique. The top was the best part.