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New Vice Area
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Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 

Way Knarly Dudes 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Season: likely very muddy (and slippery) in the spring - fall is optimal
Page Views: 782
Submitted By: Eric Swanson on Jul 18, 2006

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Description 

This route climbs the first obvious, and very dirty, crack you come to after (to the right) of Eggs and Darts and Shit. The first move is a little bit of a stem up a slightly overhanging crack, and then moves over a quick little bulge (at about the 8ft mark) to easier ground up a hand/offwidth size mud choked crack. It continues straight up the crack feature, and ends in a dirt slope to the left of the slight overhanging feature over Syncopation. While the climb is relatively easy, gear is not reliable and should be approached with caution. Be prepared with a full set of cams, and put them where ever you can. A larger cam or two might be a good idea. Also a few small nuts could be put into the broken up face to the right of the crack, between it and Syncopation. Also, you will need to either do a double rope rappel from a tree on the top, down-climb, or walk off, as there are no anchors. And please don't leave a bunch of webbing up top, as it will get covered in mud and deteriorate quickly.

  • RCM&W #98, p.2007-09 135


Protection 

a top rope can be set up on the trees at the top. OR, a leader can protect it relatively well with a set of cams and some small nuts. Don't fall. I would approach this, as well as several other dirty lesser climbed cracks at redwing with an ice mentality of "do not fall".



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By Eric Swanson
From: Plymouth
Nov 7, 2011

Lead this a year ago now, and it was definitely a do not fall type of climb. No anchors, and REALLY muddy at the top. be careful. Bring a set of BD c4s and a few small nuts. Either walk off the top, or rap a tree.

By Ken G
From: farmington, mn
Aug 4, 2013

Top rope anchor added on 7/21/13. Two 1/2 inch by 4 3/4 inch stainless powers bolts with ring anchor hangers. Climb at your own risk.