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Wax On S 

Wax Off 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cronin
Season: Spring, Summer and Fall
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on May 3, 2013

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It's more of an up and down motion.

Description 

Oh Danielson, you can tell how how strong a climber's hands are by how often he or she wax off.

Get ready to tire out your hairy palms. This climb gives you the business quick and doesn't stop until the chaffing becomes unbearable.

Oh Danielson, come spanky your wanky while you yank yourself up a fairly continuous route full of ways to further your self-abuse. Have yourself some sensual private time at this really fun, semi-secluded climb that pulls on wicked small, but awesome holds.

Great fun! A good climb in a great location for doing things that you ought to be doing away from everyone else anyway.

Location 

Come on! Take the long trek to experience this piece of athletic art. Hike past the Court House Wall and The Green Mile. You might feel like the climbing disappears, and you are lost out in the middle of nowhere for a while but this climb, and it's companions are definitely worth the visit.

Gets awesome Spring sun in the afternoon, and well into the late evenings, in April and May when it's too cold to climb at Sunshine and Indecent Exposure is too cold and windy. Great early morning shade in the heat of summer.

This is Spearfish Canyon's 400th described route on Mountain Project! Keep em' coming! Keep em' climbing and don't take yourself too seriously! Keep it real and keep it fun! Create art for art's sake and enjoy the beat down and the joy a great project, like this, is going give you. And be sure to give some love and thanks to the local boys and girls who paved the way and made this Canyon one of the greatest places in the world to get your ass handed to you in the most enjoyable of ways possible.

Protection 

3 bolts...but it's a good idea to take 10 quickdraws.


Photos of Wax Off Slideshow Add Photo
Wax Off is located to the right of the tunnel.
Wax Off is located to the right of the tunnel.
Topo for Wax Off. Follow the red line.
Topo for Wax Off. Follow the red line.

Comments on Wax Off Add Comment
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By Mikel Cronin
May 6, 2013

This route is actually only 3 bolts not 10. And it's maybe 35 feet long. Still a fun climb and quite sustained, more like a roped highball.
By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
May 7, 2013

If you're like me, it helps to double up your rack so you can fire off at both hips, and have a back-up, or two, in case you drop a draw as you gravel your way up this no rest wonder. Tough climb. Be prepared.