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Wave Mechanics 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Zieschie (sp?)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jun 8, 2009
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You & This Route
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Vinny (heart) whippers...even on TR.

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Description 

Start in the middle of the face or add a bit of length by starting on POW. Crux will be pulling the lip. If you hit the "Jug" on POW you are off route. The way the climb goes that won't seem natural anyway.


Location 

This route is in between POW and Seven Seas at the Old Sandstone area. Ascend directly in the middle of the face, it may share some holds at the beginning with POW and then the same ending as Seven Seas Left.


Protection 

TR, possible lead.



Photos of Wave Mechanics Slideshow Add Photo
The route climbs slightly left of the rope in this pic to the lip. Then follows the rope directly to the top.
The route climbs slightly left of the rope in this...
Vinnny winding up for the deadpoint to the crimp.
Vinnny winding up for the deadpoint to the crimp.
Comments on Wave Mechanics Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Jun 8, 2009

I have not led or TR'd this (I did try and get most of it except pulling the lip) and "TBD" is To Be Determined by the FA. I would like to suggest "Dead Sea Scrolls". The rating of 5.13 is a estimate.
Has it been TR'd by anyone out there?
I vaguely remember someone talking about this line on MP somewhere but I can't find it now.

By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 9, 2009

It's mentioned here, but it only mentions that EZ did the line, no name, grade, or whether it was TRed or lead. If no one can chime in with definite info, I'd say give it your own name after you send it.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 9, 2009

This looks like an awesome line. Nice and steep. I've always thought that the sandstone is more conducive to hard climbing than the quartzite.

By Tradoholic
Jun 9, 2009

Thank you Rob for your detective work. A lead would be extremely unprotected. Of course, I said that before...
I don't know if I can send it, even on TR, it seems above me for now. Of course, I said that before also.
EZ, what a fucking cranker!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 10, 2009

Cool looking line. Ain't much of a project if you can do all the moves on day 1. Sounds like a neat area, I need to get out there!

By Tradoholic
Jun 10, 2009

Uh, who said they could do all the moves on day one? Pulling the lip looks really hard! The scoop is no cake walk, but 5.11ish, but after you stand on the lip there are good holds to the top. There is a definite crux and that I can't do. "Most" the moves Eggbert, not "all".
I can't believe you haven't been to this area! You would love it!
What kind of an "Administrator" are you if you haven't climbed EVERYTHING!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 10, 2009

Ah, I guess they were right in grade school when they said "does not pay attention in class". Yeah I can't wait to get out there, this wall looks so damn cool. Looks like you had a great day out there today. My office doesn't even have a window!

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 30, 2009

I just saw a copy of the new guidebook, and it has this as a 12c. I can't rememeber the name. Anyone have it lying around?

By Tradoholic
Jun 30, 2009

Cool, please change it to whatever the new guide says. After flailing around on this thing yesterday I think 12c is a sandbag unless a some sort of different line is being taken.

By Tradoholic
Jul 2, 2009

I found out the name and changed it as well as the grade that the new guidebook gives it of 12c. I dunno, seems harder. Remo/Dobbe? Batter up!