Watts For Dinner
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|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
This route is a striking dihedral with a thin crack on the left portion of Physical Crag. It is the right-most of the two obvious left-facing dihedrals on the lower left side of the wall.
The route is approached via a moderate slab or face to the ledge at mid-height as for 'Watt's Left Over
' (possible), or perhaps by walking up the trail and traversing into the ledge (traditional). From the left side of this ledge, by a reasonably large pine tree, climb up and right on moderate terrain to reach the bottom of the hanging dihedral. Protect with thin gear and make some insecure moves to proceed upwards. The crux is at the bottom of the corner. Belay at the base of a tree above.
A very direct start is also possible, whereas from the mid-height ledge, you can climb directly up on pumpy, shallow pockets, pinches, and cobbles (no pro at all). This will culminate in a hard and insecure crux on a thin flake, to dyno for a large sloper above. This is quite powerful (I chuckle at the potential name of 'MegaWatts') and is probably 5.12. This took a few tries on TR and has not been freed.
A light rack with small nuts and cams.TR the direct start if you value your life.