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 ADVANCED
Central Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Davis-Holland Route T 
Golden Arch 
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 
Green Drag-on T 
Lovin' Arms T 
Rise and Fall T 
Swim T,S 
Technicians of the Sacred S 
Town Crier T 
Waterway 

Waterway 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3-

   
Type:  Aid, 5 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C0 [details]
FA: 
Season: summer
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Robert Fisher on Jun 10, 2010

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Looking down at the follower on P1 of Waterway on ...

Description 

An old aid line that follows the waterfall up the UTW. P1 is a good alternate to Abraxus to access other UTW climbs like Golden Arch.

P1: Climb through the overhang on fixed pins and brass nuts. Move in to the left crack the leads to a trough. LA or Ball nut is key for 2-ish moves in the trough, as is a large hook. Follow the trough to a thin crack and easier terrain. The crack leads to a long corner. Bust some free moves with wretched rope drag to the anchor on Technicians of the Sacred (bolts)

This pitch has been climbed clean with ballnuts (C2+)

P2: (didn't climb)

Location 

Follow the Upper Wall Trail to the main wall. Find the darkened rock that is usually under the waterfall on the UTW. look for a crack with a few fixed pins down low. Scramble up to the first pin and start climbing

Protection 

Offset nuts (Brass and Al), offset cams, cams (TCU -#3) hooks, ballnuts or LA's


Photos of Waterway Slideshow Add Photo
Topo for aid and free version of Waterway (from Mi...
BETA PHOTO: Topo for aid and free version of Waterway (from Mi...

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By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Jul 4, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0

I freed this route with Sean Leary in August of 2010. By no mean the best route on the UTW but we had a fun outing.

Pitches break down as follows: 5.11d, 5.11b, 5.10, 5.10

Topo and trip report can be found here goo.gl/XuWl6N
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jul 5, 2014

Thanks Mikey, I added your topo here.