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Central Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abraxas T 
Crying Dragon T 
Davis-Holland Route T 
Golden Arch 
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 
Green Drag-on T 
Lovin' Arms T 
Rise and Fall T 
Swim T 
Technicians of the Sacred S 
Town Crier T 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3-

Type:  Aid, 5 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C0 [details]
Season: summer
Page Views: 642
Submitted By: Robert Fisher on Jun 10, 2010

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Looking down at the follower on P1 of Waterway on ...


An old aid line that follows the waterfall up the UTW. P1 is a good alternate to Abraxus to access other UTW climbs like Golden Arch.

P1: Climb through the overhang on fixed pins and brass nuts. Move in to the left crack the leads to a trough. LA or Ball nut is key for 2-ish moves in the trough, as is a large hook. Follow the trough to a thin crack and easier terrain. The crack leads to a long corner. Bust some free moves with wretched rope drag to the anchor on Technicians of the Sacred (bolts)

This pitch has been climbed clean with ballnuts (C2+)

P2: (didn't climb)


Follow the Upper Wall Trail to the main wall. Find the darkened rock that is usually under the waterfall on the UTW. look for a crack with a few fixed pins down low. Scramble up to the first pin and start climbing


Offset nuts (Brass and Al), offset cams, cams (TCU -#3) hooks, ballnuts or LA's

Photos of Waterway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for aid and free version of Waterway (from Mi...
BETA PHOTO: Topo for aid and free version of Waterway (from Mi...

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By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Jul 4, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0

I freed this route with Sean Leary in August of 2010. By no mean the best route on the UTW but we had a fun outing.

Pitches break down as follows: 5.11d, 5.11b, 5.10, 5.10

Topo and trip report can be found here
By Jon Nelson
Jul 5, 2014

Thanks Mikey, I added your topo here.

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