|Central Wall Area
An old aid line that follows the waterfall up the UTW. P1 is a good alternate to Abraxus to access other UTW climbs like Golden Arch.
P1: Climb through the overhang on fixed pins and brass nuts. Move in to the left crack the leads to a trough. LA or Ball nut is key for 2-ish moves in the trough, as is a large hook. Follow the trough to a thin crack and easier terrain. The crack leads to a long corner. Bust some free moves with wretched rope drag to the anchor on Technicians of the Sacred (bolts)
This pitch has been climbed clean with ballnuts (C2+)
P2: (didn't climb)
Follow the Upper Wall Trail to the main wall. Find the darkened rock that is usually under the waterfall on the UTW. look for a crack with a few fixed pins down low. Scramble up to the first pin and start climbing
Offset nuts (Brass and Al), offset cams, cams (TCU -#3) hooks, ballnuts or LA's
BETA PHOTO: Topo for aid and free version of Waterway (from Mi...
|By Mikey Schaefer|
From: Terrebonne, OR
Jul 4, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0
I freed this route with Sean Leary in August of 2010. By no mean the best route on the UTW but we had a fun outing.
Pitches break down as follows: 5.11d, 5.11b, 5.10, 5.10
Topo and trip report can be found here goo.gl/XuWl6N
|By Jon Nelson|
Jul 5, 2014
Thanks Mikey, I added your topo here.