Waterstreak 5.8 R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 230 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | J. Kessler, '87. |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Dec 28, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: View from the parking Lot
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Description This climb is a fun climb, but is a sandbag unless you wander around to find holds. The name implies and fulfills itself in this relatively water-polished line. While in the book as 2 pitches, with a fixed belay above the 'pillar' or just run all the way up in a single 70M pitch.
In the center of the Tuna and Chips wall there is a small tower with a crack/groove on each side. 'Tuna Cookies' is on the left and 'Waterstreak' is on the right. Walk up the right side to a darker, rounded chute and start climbing Waterstreak.
Climb up and past a few bolts- these are a distance apart, and the climbing between a little unobvious and insecure. Best to be on your game on this route. Continue up (getting easier now) eventually reaching the top of the pillar and the groove above it. Belay here at the anchor or continue climbing up the groove as for Tuna Cookies. The relatively easy moves to reach the summit of the right side of the Tuna and Chips Wall will be welcome with the runout.
Belay up top and then to walk off, go back and to the right and scramble down (5.0).
Like Tuna and Chips, this is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it.
Protection A few draws and a standard light rack.
BETA PHOTO: Here is the view before you climb.
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BETA PHOTO: Straight on shot of the climb.
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By Ian Wolfe
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 1, 2006
| If you climb directly up the waterstreak, without using any of the larger holds to the left or right, the route is 5.10a. It's very runout between the second and third bolts, and if you fell right before clipping the 3rd bolt you stand a very high chance of decking (can't say I was too keen to test the idea). Very fun, but maybe something to do on TR after climbing it the 5.8 way.
Ian |
By Chauncemaster
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 8, 2008
rating: 5.8+ R
| This route is extremely runout, would not recommend for a 5.8 climber. Maybe we missed a bolt or one was missing but there is definitely possibility for a groundfall from about 40-50 feet high if you came off at just the wrong time which would not be pretty. |
By Ron Graham
Dec 30, 2008
rating: 5.10a R
| The 5.10a version of the waterstreak is an awesome toprope climb. Those who want to try leading it without taking a risk of decking from a fall between the second and third bolts might want to rig a long sling from the third bolt that creates an interim clip-in point.
Whether top-roped or led, this is an excellent climb for focusing on your feet. The handholds are very crimpy and often far apart, requiring very careful foot placements to advance comfortably up the route. |
By celerystick
From: Riverton
Mar 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a R
| This is an awesome route if you stay inside the water streak. It's a good 5.10 as long as you don't veer out to the tempting bigger holds. Stay inside and you'll be rewarded with a great climb. Good chance of decking if you don't toprope it or rig like a previous poster said. |
By Tom Lausch
From: Stoughton, WI
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a R
| 5.10A is the only good way to climb this. Straight up the chute with no using the side. Good friction all the way. Clipping stances were good. But dont miss the 3rd bolt or you will end up in the hospital. |
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